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Mark Read

İzmir & the North Aegean

An extraordinary number of attractions are waiting to be discovered along the short stretch of coast between the Dardanelles and the Çeşme Peninsula. There are sandy beaches aplenty, and innumerable scenic viewpoints from where the Greek islands of Lesbos and Chios appear to float on the sparkling Aegean Sea.

There are also plenty of reminders of the region's importance in antiquity, most notably the extraordinary Acropolis and Askeplion at Bergama (Pergamum), the evocative ruins of Teos and the spectacularly sited Temple of Athena at Behramkale (Assos).

But as wonderful as these beaches and ruins are – not to mention the compelling attractions on offer in the urbane city of İzmir – most people who visit this part of the country say their most lasting memories are of the bittersweet traces of Greek heritage that have influenced the local cuisine and architecture and enriched the lives of its inhabitants.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout İzmir & the North Aegean.

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    Bergama Acropolis

    One of Turkey's most impressive archaeological sites, Bergama's acropolis is dramatically sited on a hill to the northeast of the town centre. There's plenty to see in this ancient settlement, with ruins large and small scattered over the upper and lower cities. Chief among these are the Temple of Trajan, the vertigo-inducing 10,000-seat Hellenistic theatre, the Altar of Zeus (sadly denuded of its magnificent frieze, which now resides in Berlin) and the whimsical mosaic floors in Building Z.

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    Muradiye Mosque

    The architectural genius of Mimar Sinan is well and truly on show at this exquisite mosque, which was commissioned by Sultan Murat III and constructed between 1583 and 1585. After admiring its twin minarets and front portico, enter through the ornately decorated door – a triumph of inlaid wood and marble – and you'll be confronted by one of the most beautiful of all Ottoman mosque interiors, with a profusion of İznik tiling and delicate stained glass.

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    Asklepion

    The Asklepion may not be as dramatic as the Acropolis, but in some ways it is even more extraordinary. One of the most important healing centres of the Roman world, it had baths, temples, a theatre, a library, treatment centres and latrines in its heyday. Remnants of many of these structures have been preserved on site, and what we see now is quite similar to how the centre would have appeared in the time of Emperor Hadrian (117–138 BC).

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    Ruins of Sardis

    Scattered around the village of Sartmustafa (or Sart), this archaeological site is a rewarding day trip from İzmir (80km away). It and Manisa can easily be visited on the same day. The ruins lie at the eastern end of the village, immediately north of the road, and include Byzantine shops, a synagogue, palestra (an open expanse where athletes trained and where the gymnasium and baths once stood), Roman villa, Temple of Artemis and 4th-century church.

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    İzmir Museum of History & Art

    This museum is overlooked by many visitors to the city, who do themselves a great disservice in the process. Spread over three pavilions, it is one of the richest repositories of ancient artefacts in the country and its Sculpture pavilion – crammed with masterpieces from ancient Smyrna, Teos, Miletos and Pergamon – is simply sensational. The Precious Objects and Ceramics pavilions contain jewellery, coins and pots, all displayed in a somewhat dated fashion but with informative labelling in English.

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    Kemeraltı Market

    A labyrinthine bazaar stretching from Konak Sq through to the ancient Agora, Kemeraltı dates back to the 17th century and is home to shops, eateries, artisans' workshops, mosques, coffeehouses, tea gardens and synagogues. Spending a day exploring its crowded and colourful streets, historic places of worship, hidden courtyards and grand caravanserais reveals the real İzmir. Highlights include the cafes between the Hisar Mosque and the Kızlarağası Han, which serve the city's famous fincanda pişen Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee boiled in the cup).

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    Teos

    The evocative ruins of this ancient city, which was one of the 12 cities of the Ionian League, are spread over a low hilly isthmus now used as farmland. A flourishing seaport with two fine harbours in Greek and Roman times, Teos was known for its wines, theatre and Temple of Dionysis; the ruins of the latter two can be explored on site and other features are being unearthed in ongoing excavations being conducted by the University of Ankara.

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    Kordon

    It’s difficult to imagine life in İzmir without its iconic seafront kordon (promenade), which stretches north from Cumhuriyet Meydanı to Alsancak and south from Konak Pier to Konak Meydanı. A triumph of urban renewal, these two stretches are grassed, have bicycle and walking paths, and are lined on their eastern edge with bars, cafes and restaurants. Locals flock here at the end of the day to meet with friends, relax on the grass and watch the picture-perfect sunsets.

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    Bergama Archaeology Museum

    Boasting a small but impressive collection of artefacts, Bergama's museum is well worth a visit. On exhibit are reliefs from the Acropolis, including a wonderful Roman-era relief from the Demeter Terrace, and a Hellenistic frieze and architrave from the Athena Terrace. Also impressive are the many statues from the Asklepion and a mosaic floor featuring Medusa's head that was originally in the Lower Agora. The ethnography gallery focuses on the crafts, costumes and customs of the Ottoman period.