Mark Read

İzmir & the North Aegean

An extraordinary number of attractions are waiting to be discovered along the short stretch of coast between the Dardanelles and the Çeşme Peninsula. There are sandy beaches aplenty, and innumerable scenic viewpoints from where the Greek islands of Lesbos and Chios appear to float on the sparkling Aegean Sea.

There are also plenty of reminders of the region's importance in antiquity, most notably the extraordinary Acropolis and Askeplion at Bergama (Pergamum), the evocative ruins of Teos and the spectacularly sited Temple of Athena at Behramkale (Assos).

But as wonderful as these beaches and ruins are – not to mention the compelling attractions on offer in the urbane city of İzmir – most people who visit this part of the country say their most lasting memories are of the bittersweet traces of Greek heritage that have influenced the local cuisine and architecture and enriched the lives of its inhabitants.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout İzmir & the North Aegean.

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İzmir Museum of History & Art
This museum is overlooked by many visitors to the city, who do themselves a great disservice in the process. Spread over three pavilions, it is one of the richest repositories of ancient artefacts in the country and its Sculpture pavilion – crammed with masterpieces from ancient Smyrna, Teos, Miletos and Pergamon – is simply sensational. The Precious Objects and Ceramics pavilions contain jewellery, coins and pots, all displayed in a somewhat dated fashion but with informative labelling in English. Highlights include the coin collection in the Precious Objects pavilion, which includes some of the coins minted at Sardis during the reign of King Croesus. These date from the very early 7th century BC and were made of electrum, an alloy of gold and silver with traces of other elements. The jewellery in this pavilion is also impressive. The Sculpture pavilion is so full of treasures that it is hard to single out only a few. Don't miss the friezes from the Temple of Dionysos at Teos and from the theatres and other buildings at Miletos – the frieze from the theatre at Miletos is particularly stunning. Also upstairs and of particular note are the sculptural fragments from the Belevi Mausoleum near Ephesus, which date from the 3rd century BC. Downstairs, look out for the Roman-era statue of the river god Kaistros from Ephesus (2nd century AD), the amazingly lifelike Hellenistic three-figure stele from Tralleis (Aydın) and the high reliefs of Demeter and Poseidon from İzmir's Agora.
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Kemeraltı Market
A labyrinthine bazaar stretching from Konak Sq through to the ancient Agora, Kemeraltı dates back to the 17th century and is home to shops, eateries, artisans' workshops, mosques, coffeehouses, tea gardens and synagogues. Spending a day exploring its crowded and colourful streets, historic places of worship, hidden courtyards and grand caravanserais reveals the real İzmir. Highlights include the cafes between the Hisar Mosque and the Kızlarağası Han, which serve the city's famous fincanda pişen Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee boiled in the cup). The bazaar's main drag is Anafartalar Caddesi – use this and the historic Hisar, Şadırvan and Kestanepazarı Mosques as navigational aids. You're bound to get lost – even locals do – but losing your way and coming across unexpected treasures is part of the bazaar's attraction. Look out for the Kızlarağası Hanı, built in 1744, an Ottoman bedesten (warehouse) and kervansaray (caravanserai) similar to the İç (Inner) Bedesten in İstanbul's famous Grand Bazaar. Other highlights include the produce market in Havra (Synagogue) Sokak within the city's historic Jewish enclave. To spend a food-focused day within and around the bazaar, consider signing up for the Only in İzmir guided culinary walk operated by the well-regarded Culinary Backstreets outfit. Note that it is not safe to wander through Kemeraltı at night, particularly in the area around Havra Sokağı.
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Kordon
It’s difficult to imagine life in İzmir without its iconic seafront kordon (promenade), which stretches north from Cumhuriyet Meydanı to Alsancak and south from Konak Pier to Konak Meydanı. A triumph of urban renewal, these two stretches are grassed, have bicycle and walking paths, and are lined on their eastern edge with bars, cafes and restaurants. Locals flock here at the end of the day to meet with friends, relax on the grass and watch the picture-perfect sunsets. A number of museums and attractions are located on the kordon, including the Zübeyde Hanım Museum Ship, the Arkas Art Centre and the Atatürk Museum. There are also bicycles for hire, and horse-drawn carriages sometimes offering short tours on weekends.
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Old Town
Ayvalık’s old town is a joy to explore. A maze of cobbled streets east of the liman, it is full of market squares, atmospheric cafes, Greek Orthodox churches and pretty stone houses built by Greek residents during the Ottoman era. Be sure to wander along Barbaros Caddesi, home to historic businesses such as the Karamanlar Unlu Mamülleri bakery, and also visit the atmosphere-drenched Şeytan Kahvesı, aka 'the Devil’s Coffeehouse', on Alibey Cami Caddesi.
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Agora
Dating from the end of the 4th century BC, Smyrna's ancient agora was ruined in an earthquake in AD 178 but soon rebuilt by order of the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. The reconstructed Corinthian colonnade and Faustina Gate are eye-catching, but the vaulted chambers and cisterns in the basements of the two stoas (basilicas) are even more interesting, giving visitors a good idea of how this rectangular-shaped, multilevel marketplace would have looked in its heyday. Archaeological investigations are still underway. A Muslim cemetery was later built on the agora and many of the old tombstones remain on site. The ticket office is located on the south side, just off Gazi Osmanpaşa Bulvarı.
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Çeşme Museum
Çeşme's majestic Genoese-built fortress dates from 1508 and was later repaired by order of Sultan Beyazıt II, son of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror, in order to defend the coast from attack by pirates. Impressively restored, it now houses the town's museum. Rooms in the Umur Bey tower and around the bailey (inner enclosure) house archaeological and historical exhibits, and the terraced bailey is filled with historic gravestones and stelae. The battlements offer excellent views of the town and harbour. The archaeological finds come from nearby Erythrae (now Ildırı), as well as from the Bağlararası Bronze Age harbour settlement (tools, a curious stone phallus) and the Roman era (superb gold diadems). Two rooms in the tower house a comprehensive exhibit about Russian Empress Catherine the Great and the Russian-Ottoman naval battle of 5 July 1770, which occurred in Çeşme Bay. A decisive engagement of the Russo-Turkish War of 1768–74, the Russians were triumphant and the Ottoman fleet wiped out.
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Church of St Polycarp
Built in the early 17th century, this Catholic church is the oldest still-functioning Christian house of worship in the city. Its survival during the 1922 fire, which razed all neighbouring buildings to the ground, was nothing short of miraculous. Inside, the walls are covered in frescoes that were restored and added to in the 19th century by local architect Raymond Charles Père, who depicted himself in the fresco of St Polycarp's martyrdom (he's the mustachioed chap with the bound hands). The church is named in honour of the city's patron saint, who was converted to Christianity by St John the Evangelist and became Bishop of Smyrna. He was burned at the stake by the Romans in AD 155 after refusing to renounce Christ and his feast day is observed on 26 January. Ring the white door on Necati Bey Bulvarı 2 to gain entrance.
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Taksiyarhis Memorial Museum
This erstwhile Greek Orthodox cathedral, built in 1844 but never used as a place of worship, was completely renovated in 2013 and positively shimmers in the midday sun. Note the catedra (bishop’s seat) decorated with pelicans and a crown, the wonderful pulpit and the 18th-century icons in the apse. The cathedral is huge, with three aisles and a free-standing belfry.
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Kızlarağası Hanı
This restored Ottoman-built bedesten (warehouse) dates from 1744 and is similar to the İç (Inner) Bedesten in İstanbul's famous Grand Bazaar. It's touristy, with most items for sale harking from the far end of the Silk Road (China), but the building itself – which also functioned as a kervansaray (caravansarai) in its heyday – is extremely handsome.