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Pemba's terrain is hilly and lushly vegetated, while much of the coast is lined with mangroves and lagoons, interspersed with idyllic beaches and islets. Offshore, coral reefs offer some of East Africa's best diving.
Throughout, Pemba remains largely beneath the radar, and you'll still have most things to yourself, which is a big part of the island's appeal.
For much of its history, Pemba has been overshadowed by Zanzibar Island, its larger neighbor to the south. Although the islands are separated by only 50km of sea, relatively few tourists cross the channel. Those who do, however, are seldom disappointed.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Pemba.
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Surrounded by crystal waters and stunning coral reefs, Misali offers some of the best diving in East Africa, while snorkelling is spectacular and easily reached from the beach. Around the island, nesting turtles favour beaches on the western side, while on the northeast coast is Baobab Beach, with fine sand and a small ranger centre (although information here is limited).
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In far northeastern Pemba, dense and wonderfully lush Ngezi is one of the last remaining areas of indigenous forest that once covered much of the island, and as close to rainforest that you'll get anywhere on Zanzibar. Protected by a 1476-hectare reserve, the forest is a true double canopy, complete with vines providing swings for raucous vervet monkeys. The entrance gate and visitor centre is 5km west of Konde, on the main dirt road to the Kigomasha Peninsula.
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Kidike Sanctuary is home to a spectacular colony of Pemba flying foxes, a large bat indigenous to Pemba (called popo in Swahili). About 4000 individuals hang in a patch of trees, often taking to the air, clearly visible during the day, undisturbed by local people thanks to the proximity of a local burial site. There's a small (and tumbledown) viewing platform so you can see more clearly.
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The ruined palace of Mohammed bin Abdul Rahman, who ruled Pemba prior to the arrival of the Portuguese (late 15th to early 16th centuries), is an evocative spot. Rahman had a reputation for cruelty and was known as Mkame Ndume (Milker of Men). Today the ruins' primary feature is a large stone staircase that led from the kilometre-long channel (now dry) connecting this site to the ocean.
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Pemba is well known for its clove industry, and this distillery is where the clove stems are turned into essential oil. It's operated by the Zanzibar State Trading Corporation (ZSTC) and also here on occasion are cinnamon leaves, eucalyptus leaves, lemongrass and sweet basil. The tour may be a little lackadaisical, but the process is fascinating. Go first to the office and small shop selling the finished product (yes, enter through the gift shop) and arrange a guide.
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Ras Mkumbuu is the headland at the end of the thin strip of land jutting into the sea northwest of Chake Chake. It's also the name given to the ruins of an ancient settlement, once called Qanbalu, dating from the 8th century, which by the early 10th century had become one of the major cities along the East African coast. The main ruins, consisting of a large mosque, some tombs and houses, date from around the 14th century, and several walls are still standing.
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Stepping onto Vumawimbi, you may need to rub your eyes to check you haven’t gone to heaven, so idyllic is the view. Stretching along the east side of the Kigomasha Peninsula, and north of Ngezi Forest Reserve, not many outsiders come here, as all the hotels are on the west side, but it's sometimes visited if the wind is from the west, as it's more sheltered. It’s an isolated spot, so come with company and a picnic.
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Located on the headland (ras) at the far northern tip of the Kigomasha Peninsula, this lighthouse was built by the British in 1900 and is still actively maintained by its keeper. Unlike many lighthouses on Zanzibar it's built of iron, rather than stone. Scale the tiny staircase (95 steps) for wonderful views out to sea and back across the island.
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The waters and islets along the entire west coast of Pemba are officially protected as the Pemba Channel Conservation Area (PECCA). The aim is to benefit wildlife, natural resources and local people. All divers and snorkellers pay a small entry fee to access this area, usually included in the amount you pay the hotel or tour company organising your trip.