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Central Sweden

Central Sweden is the perfect distillation of all the things that make Sweden so Swedish, plopped not exactly in the nation's geographical centre, but in the middle of its population belt, making access to a diverse range of sights and experiences a cinch. You'll see plenty of old Volvos, Dalahäst (carved wooden horses), saunas, sunsets over lakes and candles in the windows out here. It's a paradise of forests, mountains and meadows and oh so much water,and is within easy reach of Stockholm and Gothenburg.

The Lake Siljan area, with its idyllic villages of Falu Red cottages, represents the country’s historic heartland. Beyond Falun, the landscape becomes wilder and more rugged – a tease of Lappland and the far north.

The region is anchored to the south by the cities of Örebro, Uppsala and Västerås. All are lively cultural centres boasting well-preserved architecture, a wealth of museums and plenty of scope for wining, dining and shopping.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central Sweden.

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    Gamla Uppsala

    One of Sweden’s largest and most important burial sites, Gamla Uppsala (4km north of Uppsala) contains 300 mounds from the 6th to 12th centuries. The earliest are also the three most impressive. Legend has it they contain the pre-Viking kings Aun, Egil and Adils, who appear in Beowulf and Icelandic historian Snorre Sturlason’s Ynglingsaga. More recent evidence suggests the occupant of Östhögen (East Mound) was a woman, probably a female regent in her 20s or 30s. According to Olof Rudbeck’s 1679 book Atlantica, Gamla Uppsala was the seat of Western culture. Rudbeck (1630–1702), a scientist, writer and all-around colourful character, amassed copious evidence proving that Old Uppsala was, in fact, the mythical lost city of Atlantis. In retrospect this seems unlikely, but the area is a fascinating attraction nevertheless. You can learn more in the adjoining Gamla Uppsala Museum, or wander on your own; there are informative plaques throughout the site. Speculation has surrounded the burial site from the beginning. Early press reports include that of medieval chronicler Adam of Bremen – who never actually visited – describing a vast golden temple in Gamla Uppsala in the 10th century. Allegedly, animal and human sacrifices were strung up in a sacred grove outside. When Christianity arrived around 1090, Thor, Odin and the other Viking gods began to fade. From 1164, the archbishop of Uppsala had his seat in a cathedral on the site of the present church. If you feel like a stroll or a bicycle ride, Eriksleden is a 6km ‘pilgrims path’ between the cathedral in Uppsala and the church in Gamla Uppsala. Its namesake, Erik the Holy, was king of Sweden from around 1150 until the Danes beheaded him 10 years later. The story is that his head rolled down the hill, and where it stopped a spring came up. The main trail also provides access to a ridged wilderness area called Tunåsen, with a panoramic viewpoint (follow signs along Eriksleden just south of Gamla Uppsala to ‘ utsiktsleden ’). Buses for Gamla Uppsala leave from Stora Torget in central Uppsala.

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    Falu Gruva

    Falun’s kopparbergs gruva was the world’s most important copper mine by the 17th century. Called 'Sweden's treasure chest', it drove the small country's international aspirations, funded wars and helped paint all those summer cottages that distinctive red. You can opt to take a one-hour underground tour of the mines or simply explore above ground where you'll find the interesting and informative Mine Museum and some heritage outbuildings, cafes and boutiques. Don't miss the dramatic Stora Stöten (Great Pit), a vast hole caused by a major mine collapse in the 17th century. By some miracle, the miners were on holiday that day and no one was harmed. There are lookouts around the crater edge, and numerous mine buildings, including a 15m waterwheel and shaft-head machinery. Tradition says a goat called Kåre first drew attention to the copper reserves when he rolled in the earth and pranced back to the village with red horns. The first historical mention is in a document from 1288, when the Bishop of Västerås bought shares in the company. As a by-product, the mine produced the red paint that became a characteristic of Swedish houses – Falu Red is still used today. The mine finally closed in 1992 after nearly 1000 years of almost constant operations. Admission includes a map of the walking routes around the area – there are some very pretty trails that follow the path of the water once used to power the mine. Suggested routes range from 1.5km to a nice 12.2km ramble. In summer, tours in English happen hourly depending on demand, but you can always tag along with a Swedish group and you'll get by; from October to April you should book ahead. Bring warm clothing and good shoes – the temperature in the mine hovers around 5-degrees Celsius and there are many stairs.

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    Tiveden National Park

    Carved by glaciers, this trolls’ home and former highwayrobber’s haunt 84km southwest of Örebro makes for wonderful wild walking. The park, reopened in 2017 after extensive works, is noted for its rare, ancient virgin forests, and has lots of dramatic bare bedrock, extensive boulder fields and a scattering of lakes. Several self-guided walks, including the 6km Trollkyrka (‘troll church’) trail, start from the visitor centre in the southeastern part of the park, 5km north of Rd 49 (turn-off at Bocksjö). There are also themed guided tours (150kr), starting at 10am Wednesday through Sunday from the visitor centre from mid-June to August. You can pick up brochures and maps here, and there’s a small shop. A few kilometres north along Rd 49 is the turn-off to Fagertärn, a pretty lake that fills with blood-red water lilies in July. Legend says a fisherman called Fager traded his daughter to the fearsome water spirit Näcken in exchange for a good catch. On their wedding day, the daughter rowed out onto the lake alone and drove a knife into her heart, and the lilies have been stained red ever since. The park is a bit out of the way, and there’s no public transport, but if you have your own wheels it’s worth a stop, especially for hikers. The area is also good for cycling (the Sverigeleden trail passes nearby), canoeing, fishing, cross-country skiing and horse riding. Contact the visitor centre for arrangements. You can camp overnight in the park or stay in adorable little red huts at the STF Tivedstorp Vandrarhem.

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    Carl Larsson-gården

    Don’t miss Sweden's 'most famous home', located 13km northeast of Falun in the picturesque village of Sundborn. After their deaths, the early-20th-century residence of artist Carl Larsson and his wife Karin was preserved in its entirety by their children, but it’s no gloomy memorial: 'Lilla Hyttnäs' is itself a work of art, full of brightness, humour and love. Admission is by hour-long guided tour: call in advance to book English-language tours or grab an English handbook and follow the Swedes. Superb colour schemes and furniture fill the house: Carl’s portraits of his wife and children are everywhere, and Karin’s tapestries and embroidery reveal she was as skilled an artist as her husband. Even today, the modern styles throughout the house (especially the dining room) will inspire interior decorators and designers, while the way the family lived, suffused in art and learning, has a message for everyone. Also worth a look is the Kvarnen ('mill') gallery, which focuses on Karin Larsson and hosts temporary exhibits (adult/child 60/20kr, combined admission with house tour adult/child 200/70kr).

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    Domkyrka

    The Gothic Domkyrka dominates the city and is Scandinavia's largest and tallest church, with towers soaring 119m. The interior is imposing, with the French Gothic ambulatory flanked by small chapels. Tombs here include those of St Erik, Gustav Vasa and the scientist Carl von Linné. Dating from 1710, the magnificent pulpit was designed by baroque architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, whose work includes Stockholm's current Royal Palace. Construction of the cathedral began in around 1270, with the building consecrated in 1435. Originally a Roman Catholic church, it would go on to witness centuries of Swedish coronations following the Protestant Reformation. Although a fire in 1702 caused significant damage, some of its medieval frescoes survive. Much newer are the spires and stained glass, added in the 19th century. Regular English-language tours of the cathedral are conducted from late June to mid-August and at other times by appointment. Gustav’s funerary sword and silver crown, among other treasures, are kept in the fascinating Treasury.

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    Museum Gustavianum

    A wonder cabinet of wonder cabinets, the Museum Gustavianum rewards appreciation of the weird and well organised. The shelves in the pleasantly musty building hold case after case of obsolete tools and preserved oddities: stuffed birds, astrolabes, alligator mummies, exotic stones and dried sea creatures. A highlight is the fascinating 17th-century Augsburg Art Cabinet and its 1000 ingenious trinkets. Don’t miss Olof Rudbeck’s vertiginous anatomical theatre, where executed criminals were dissected. Admission includes a tour in English at 1pm Saturday and Sunday.

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    Orsa Rovdjurspark

    Fat-bottomed roly-poly bear cubs are the star attraction at the largest predator park in Europe, some 16km north of Orsa. Even if there are no cubs around during your visit, there’s plenty to see: polar bears, Kodiak bears, leopards, Amur tigers, lynx, wolves, red foxes and wolverines. The park and the various possible activities here continue to expand, and now include cycling tours, themed hikes and more. The animals have a lot of space, woodland and water, which is ideal for them, but means there’s plenty of room to hide, so you may not see the more skittish creatures. For the closest views, follow the posted feeding schedule. It's way easier to get here by car, but if that's not an option for you, you'll need to book a spot on bus 342 towards Grönklitt (40kr, 20 minutes). Ask at Orsa turistbyrå for details.

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    Munthe’s Hildasholm

    Built by Axel Munthe (1857–1949), who served as the Swedish royal physician and wrote the best-selling memoir The Story of San Michele, this sumptuously decorated National Romantic–style mansion is set in beautiful gardens with views over Lake Siljan. Built for Munthe's second wife, an English aristocrat, in 1910–11, the mansion was rarely visited by Munthe as he spent most of his time attending to Queen Viktoria on the island of Capri. Admission is by guided tour only. Tours (in Swedish) run every hour, with a guided tour in English at 2pm.

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    Zorngården

    The Zorn family house, Zorngården, is an excellent example of a wealthy artist’s residence and reflects Anders Zorn’s National Romantic aspirations (check out the Viking-influenced hall and entryway). Access to the house is by guided tour (in Swedish) on the hour and half-hour. Guided tours in English are conducted over the summer season at 11.15am and 2.15pm and must be booked in advance. Combination tickets including the adjacent Zornmuseet are 160kr (no child discount).