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The windswept coastline and desolate mountains on the western side of Western Cape are a peaceful, largely undeveloped paradise. You’ll find whitewashed fishing villages, fascinating country towns, unspoilt beaches, a lagoon and wetlands teeming with birds, plus one of the best hiking regions in the country.
The West Coast National Park is a must for birdwatchers and lovers of seascapes, while inland lies the richly fertile Olifants River Valley, where citrus orchards and vineyards sit at the foot of the Cederberg Mountains – a hiker’s heaven. This remote area has spectacular rock formations and a wealth of San rock paintings.
Between the coast and the mountains lies the Swartland, undulating hills of wheat and vineyards. Swartland (black land) received its name from renosterveld, a threatened indigenous vegetation that turns dark grey in summer.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout West Coast & Swartland.
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As you drive, bike or hike through the bizarre-shaped, weathered-sandstone formations, glowing ochre in the fabulous Cederberg light, you'd be forgiven for whistling the soundtrack to an old Western movie. The 830-sq-km wilderness area boasts San rock art, craggy mountains, clear streams and bumpy dirt roads perfect for 4WD fanatics. The peaks and valleys extend roughly north–south for 100km, with the highest point reaching 2027m.
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The first bear discovered south of the Sahara, lion-size sabre-toothed cats, three-toed horses and short-necked giraffes are all on display at this excellent fossil park on Rte 45 about 16km outside Langebaan. Fascinating tours depart hourly from 10am to 3pm (until 1pm on weekends) and take you to the excavation sites – among the richest fossil sites in the world. There are also mountain-biking and walking trails, and a coffee shop.
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This park encompasses the clear, blue waters of the Langebaan Lagoon and is home to an enormous number of birds. It covers around 310 sq km and protects wetlands of international significance and important seabird breeding colonies. Wading birds flock here by the thousands in summer. The offshore islands are home to colonies of African penguins. The park is also famous for its wildflower display, usually between August and September – it can get fairly crowded during this time.
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!Khwa ttu is the only San-owned and -operated culture centre in the Western Cape. It's based on an 8.5-sq-km nature reserve within the ancestral lands of the San. Tours involve a nature walk on which you learn about San culture, and a wildlife drive – you'll likely see various antelope, zebras and ostriches. There are hiking and biking trails on the reserve and a quality gift shop stocking work from San artists. A museum was in progress when we last visited.
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This Moravian mission station, 74km southeast of Clanwilliam, dates back to 1830. Attractions include the original church and workshops – where handmade leather shoes (called velskoene) are still made.
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Of all the Darling wineries, Groote Post has the most to offer the visitor, with wildlife drives, self-guided nature walks, a superb restaurant and, of course, free tastings of its excellent chardonnays and sauvignon blancs. It's 7km along a dirt road, off Rte 307. Book ahead for the restaurant and wildlife drives.
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Darling is one of the country's best-known breweries, pouring a wide range of beers including Africa's first carbon-neutral brew. You can taste any or all of the beers in the cheery tasting room overlooking the brewery itself. The restaurant (mains R60 to R160) serves upscale bar food showcasing produce from Darling's various artisanal producers.
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There are nine San rock-art sites along a relatively easy 5km hike here. The permit fee includes an informative pamphlet deciphering the paintings and giving some history on the San. It's based at the Traveller’s Rest, 36km from Clanwilliam on the way to Bushmans Kloof.
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Once occupied by the San, these sandstone caves are glorious at sunset. First visit the rock-art site, on the right as you drive through the gate, then explore the network of caves with their marvellous views. Permits are available from Sanddrif (Dwarsrivier Farm).