Eric Lafforge
Rwanda
Rwanda is known as Le Pays des Mille Collines (Land of a Thousand Hills) thanks to the endless mountains in this scenically stunning little country. Nowhere are the mountains more majestic than the Virunga volcanoes in the northwest, and hidden among the bamboo forests are some of the world's last remaining mountain gorillas. For a change of scene, the shores of Lake Kivu conceal some of the best inland beaches on the continent, while Nyungwe Forest National Park protects extensive tracts of montane rainforest, and is home to many primates. Looking for a more metropolitan experience? Kigali, the capital, is one of the loveliest cities in Africa.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Rwanda.
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Kigali Genocide Memorial
In the span of 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered by the Interahamwe army. This memorial honours the estimated 250,000 people buried here in mass graves and also has an excellent exhibition that tries to explain how it was that the world watched as the 1994 genocide unfolded. This is an intensely powerful and moving memorial for which you should dedicate at least half a day. The informative audio tour (US$15) includes background on the divisive colonial experience in Rwanda. As the visit progresses, the exhibits become steadily more powerful, as you are confronted with the crimes that took place here and moving video testimony from survivors. If you have remained dispassionate until this point, you’ll find that it will all catch up with you at the section that remembers the children who fell victim to the killers’ machetes. Life-sized photos are accompanied by intimate details about their favourite toys, their last words and the manner in which they were killed. The memorial concludes with sections on the search for justice through the international tribunal in Arusha as well as the local gacaca courts (traditional tribunals headed by village elders). Upstairs is a moving section dedicated to informing visitors about other genocides that have taken place around the world and helping to set Rwanda’s nightmare in a historical context. After you've absorbed the museum displays, take a rose (by donation) to leave on one of the vast concrete slabs outside that cover the mass graves. There's also a wall of names, a rose garden, a gift shop and a pleasant cafe serving good coffee, lunch buffets (RFr2500), snacks and juices that is an ideal place to reflect and gather yourself before facing the outside world again. Remembrance and Learning Tours across Rwanda can also be arranged through the Kigali Genocide Memorial. It is located in the northern Kisozi district of the capital, which is a short moto-taxi ride from the centre (about RFr500).
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King's Palace Museum – Rukari
Situated on a hill 2km southwest of town, this fascinating museum is less about ancient history and more about royal residences. The displays centre on a replica king's ‘palace ’. Inclusive in the ticket price is a guided tour that helps explain some of the architectural idiosyncrasies inside the royal compound, including why the royal beer brewer’s hut had an entrance without a lip, and other curiosities such as why the woman who looked after the king’s milk was never able to marry. Behind the royal compound are the inyambo (sacred cows) with their super-sized horns. In some, the span between horn tip and horn tip exceeds 2.5m. Despite their fearsome appearance they seem to like nothing better than having lullabies sung to them! Crowning the hill itself is the royal residence of King Mutara III Rudahigwa, built by Belgium in 1931. This colonial-style home served as the royal palace until he died. Unfortunately most of the furniture and gifts he received from visiting dignitaries were stolen during the genocide, but it’s still an interesting home to wander through, with its peculiarities including three sitting rooms, the best of which was reserved for receiving white people. There are also excellent panels (in English) about Rwanda's history. Mutara was the first mwami (king) to convert to Catholicism and in the beginning was so enthralled by the Belgian rulers that he once thanked God for having sent them to Rwanda. Keep hold of your ticket, as admission to this museum entitles you to a 30% discount to National Arts Gallery – Rwesero.
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Gorilla Guardians Village
While most of the focus of Volcanoes National Park falls squarely onto the animals, this 'cultural village' puts the spotlight back onto the people. Visitors get to experience Rwandan village life by grinding seeds, firing bows and arrows, taking part in a traditional intore dance and even partaking in the marriage of a king to his queen. Despite the stage-managed atmosphere, it's a brilliant complement to a morning with the gorillas, and the money goes straight to the local communities. The village is located close to the parking for the Sabyinyo gorilla group. Call at least an hour ahead of your intended visit. You can also stay the night here.
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National Arts Gallery – Rwesero
Rwanda's most prestigious art museum is housed inside what was meant to be King Mutara III Rudahigwa's new palace (he died before the building was completed in somewhat mysterious circumstances after a routine vaccination went wrong). Today it houses mostly contemporary paintings and stylistic sculptures on themes dealing with the genocide, unity and brotherhood. Keep hold of your ticket, as admission to this museum entitles you to a 30% discount at King's Palace Museum – Rukari.
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Inema Arts Center
Opened in 2012, the privately run Inema Arts Center is a collective of 10 resident artists and guests. It's quickly established itself as the foremost modern art gallery in Kigali. As well as paintings, sculptures and contemporary takes on traditional crafts, there are dance and music performances several days a week and courses. Much of the art is for sale (and can be shipped internationally), but if you're not buying, you're welcome just to admire. There's a small on-site cafe.
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Museum of Natural History
Kigali's best museum has exhibits on Rwanda’s natural wonders and is housed in the 1907 residence of explorer Richard Kandt, reputed to be the first building in Kigali. The view from the garden is sensational and, looking over the urban sprawl, it’s hard to imagine that it all started with this rather modest home. Few moto-taxi drivers have heard of the museum. Ask for Richard Kandt's house instead.
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Nyanza Genocide Memorial
Located in Kicukiro, a suburb southeast of the city centre towards the airport, there is little to see at this memorial other than the tiled tops of four mass graves believed to contain the remains of the 4000 Tutsis who took refuge in the Ecole Technique Officielle (ETO) grounds, and numerous unmarked wooden crosses. Following the assassination of 10 Belgian soldiers at Camp Kigali and the subsequent withdrawal of Belgian troops, the Tutsis here were left unprotected and ultimately taken to Nyanza and massacred. If arriving by moto-taxi (RFr1000 from town), tell the driver you’re heading to ‘ urwibutso rwa Nyanza ya Kicukiro ’.
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Hotel des Mille Collines
The inspiration for the film Hotel Rwanda, this still-functioning luxury hotel was owned by the Belgian airline Sabena in 1994. At the time of the genocide, the hotel’s European managers were evacuated and control was given to local employee Paul Rusesabagina, who used his position to hide fleeing Tutsis and moderate Hutus, thus saving hundreds of lives. Paul, his family and a few lucky survivors were eventually evacuated in a UN convoy as the Interahamwe seized the hotel. Today, Paul lives in Brussels, is an outspoken humanitarian and has been involved in a public feud with Rwandan President, Paul Kagame.
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Camp Kigali Memorial
The 10 stone columns you find here mark the spot where 10 Belgian UN peacekeepers were murdered on the first day of the genocide. Originally deployed to protect the home of moderate Prime Minister Agathe Uwilingiyimana, the soldiers were captured, disarmed and brought here by the Presidential Guard before being killed. Each stone column represents one of the soldiers and the horizontal cuts in it represent the soldier’s age. The bullet-sprayed building in which the soldiers died now houses a small exhibition on the genocide.
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