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With its rugged mountain interior, unspoiled beaches, underwater coral gardens and urban grooves, Negros has the most to offer in western Visayas after Boracay. This is particularly true of its southern coast, stretching from Danjugan Island around the tip to Bais, where diving is big business. Here the natural base is Dumaguete, a funky college town and expat hang-out. In the north, Bacolod has culinary treats, nearby Silay is a living museum of historic homes, and the cool mountain resorts of Mt Kanlaon are a refreshing alternative to the beach.
When travelling, it makes sense to think of Negros in north–south terms, however politically, it's divided into two provinces lying on either side of a central mountain range. To the west lies Negros Occidental – its capital is Bacolod and language Ilonggo. To the east is Negros Oriental, with its capital Dumaguete, and where people speak Cebuano.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Negros.
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About 20km northwest of Dumaguete, the twin crater lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao offer some wonderfully scenic hiking. The area is virgin forest and full of wildlife, including monkeys and birds; if you're lucky you might spy a rare Philippine spotted deer or Visayan warty pig. Entry to the park is payable at the checkpoint office – where guides (P300) are available, but it's better to arrange a guide from the Provincial Tourism Office in Dumaguete.
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This 42-hectare island is a model of intelligent ecotourism. Well-maintained paths provide access through thick forest to idyllic deserted beaches, sea-eagle nests and a screeching bat cave where pythons feed at the entrance, striking bats during their evening exodus. There are kayaks and a dive centre (P1300 per person, minimum four people). Offshore there are three no-take zones, allowing improved fish-watching. Dorm-style lodging is available in simple open cabanas with mosquito nets or the more comfortable set-up at Typhoon Beach.
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Set on lovely manicured grounds surrounded by sugar plantations, the RUINS is an early-20th-century Italianate mansion originally built by a local sugar magnate in honour of his deceased wife. During WWII, US soldiers set it on fire to prevent the advancing Japanese army from occupying it. Three days later, after the fire subsided, only a haunting skeletal concrete frame remained. If you visit at sunset, its neoclassical columns and stately carved arches make fantastic photographic backdrops.
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Sagay is best known as the guardian of the 32,000-hectare Sagay Marine Reserve, established in 1999. For visitors, highlights are the 200-hectare Carbin Reef (P100 entry), about 15km northeast of Old Sagay (20 minutes by bangka), and Suyac Island (P20 entry), where you can walk an elevated 400m bamboo boardwalk and kayak through the mangroves (P300).
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These glorious 30m-high falls, 4km from Valencia, are most refreshing after the challenging trek to reach them. After climbing down the 335 steps, the trail, or what remains of it after being washed away in a typhoon, can be a struggle over muddy and rock-strewn grounds for another two or so kilometres. The best way to get to the falls – other than walking – is to hire a habal-habal from Valencia market to take you to the steps (P150).
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While Filipino cities aren't generally known for their beauty or charm, Dumaguete's waterfront promenade along Rizal Blvd is an exception to the rule. Constructed in 1916, this scenic quarter-mile lined with old-fashioned street lamps is a peaceful spot to stroll, attracting families on picnics, power walkers and those content to sit on benches gazing out to sea. Nearby is a good selection of restaurants, bars and food stalls.
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Opposite the hospital is this small zoo and research centre housing 16 species of indigenous mammals, reptiles and birds, including the critically endangered Negros bleeding-heart pigeon, Philippine spotted deer (only found on Negros and Panay) and the Visayan warty pig. Donations are appreciated, and needed, as conditions are worrisome.
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This stately house contains an astonishing private art collection, as well as antiques belonging to one of Silay's principal families. The house is owned by the charismatic and loquacious Ramon Hofileña, a tireless preserver of the region's cultural heritage. If you book ahead, Ramon will proudly show you around his priceless collection of local artworks.
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On the main road through town, the silver-domed, Romanesque Church of San Diego (1927) is topped by a crucifix that, when lit at night, is visible far out to sea. Don't miss the garden set in the adjacent ruins of the previous church, which houses an attractive prayer room screened with capiz windows.