Subscribe

Getty Images/Flickr RF

Negros

With its rugged mountain interior, unspoiled beaches, underwater coral gardens and urban grooves, Negros has the most to offer in western Visayas after Boracay. This is particularly true of its southern coast, stretching from Danjugan Island around the tip to Bais, where diving is big business. Here the natural base is Dumaguete, a funky college town and expat hang-out. In the north, Bacolod has culinary treats, nearby Silay is a living museum of historic homes, and the cool mountain resorts of Mt Kanlaon are a refreshing alternative to the beach.

When travelling, it makes sense to think of Negros in north–south terms, however politically, it's divided into two provinces lying on either side of a central mountain range. To the west lies Negros Occidental – its capital is Bacolod and language Ilonggo. To the east is Negros Oriental, with its capital Dumaguete, and where people speak Cebuano.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Negros.

  • See

    Danjugan Island Marine Reserve & Sanctuary

    This 42-hectare island is a model of intelligent ecotourism. Well-maintained paths provide access through thick forest to idyllic deserted beaches, sea-eagle nests and a screeching bat cave where pythons feed at the entrance, striking bats during their evening exodus. There are kayaks and a dive centre (P1300 per person, minimum four people). Offshore there are three no-take zones, allowing improved fish-watching. Dorm-style lodging is available in simple open cabanas with mosquito nets or the more comfortable set-up at Typhoon Beach. The island is managed by the Philippine Reef & Rainforest Conservation Foundation in Bacolod. Day trips can be arranged through PRRCF or Punta Bulata Resort for P950 to P1950, including boat trip, lunch, kayaking, trekking, snorkelling and all necessary gear. Overnights (P2950 to P3950) include lodging and meals, and are arranged through PRRCF. Three-day advance notice recommended.

  • See

    Rizal Boulevard

    While Filipino cities aren't generally known for their beauty or charm, Dumaguete's waterfront promenade along Rizal Blvd is an exception to the rule. Constructed in 1916, this scenic quarter-mile lined with old-fashioned street lamps is a peaceful spot to stroll, attracting families on picnics, power walkers and those content to sit on benches gazing out to sea. Nearby is a good selection of restaurants, bars and food stalls.

  • See

    Negros Forests & Ecological Foundation

    A zoo with a difference, this foundation seeks to preserve endangered animals endemic to Negros. It houses mostly birds, including an extraordinary collection of rare and colourful hornbills that alone justifies a visit. There are also flying foxes, Visayan leopards and endangered local deer.

  • See

    Twin Lakes National Park

    About 20km northwest of Dumaguete, the twin crater lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao offer some wonderfully scenic hiking. The area is virgin forest and full of wildlife, including monkeys and birds; if you're lucky you might spy a rare Philippine spotted deer or Visayan warty pig. Entry to the park is payable at the checkpoint office – where guides (P300) are available, but it's better to arrange a guide from the Provincial Tourism Office in Dumaguete. Go 900m beyond the entry gate to reach the first lake, where there are kayaks (per hour P100) and paddleboats (per hour P250) available. There's also a pleasant restaurant overlooking shimmering Lake Balinsasayao. Hiking trails include a short trail connecting the lakes; a popular 30-minute trail to some waterfalls; and a longer three-hour trail to the twin falls in Red River Valley. Pack good shoes as this trail can get very slippery. Arriving from Dumaguete, the entry point for the 13.5km scenic track to Twin Lakes is just before San José on the coastal road at Km 12.4 (you'll see the sign pointing inland). A habal-habal from here to the lake is a P400 round trip. To get to the turn-off from Dumaguete, catch one of several daily buses from the north bus terminal (P25) or a jeepney from Real St.

  • See

    RUINS

    Set on lovely manicured grounds surrounded by sugar plantations, the RUINS is an early-20th-century Italianate mansion originally built by a local sugar magnate in honour of his deceased wife. During WWII, US soldiers set it on fire to prevent the advancing Japanese army from occupying it. Three days later, after the fire subsided, only a haunting skeletal concrete frame remained. If you visit at sunset, its neoclassical columns and stately carved arches make fantastic photographic backdrops. There is an outdoor cafe and an Italian restaurant adjacent. Located 7km north of Bacolod, it's a 10-minute taxi from the airport (P250) or downtown (P200). Otherwise catch a 'Bata' jeepney from Lacson St and ask to be dropped off nearby; it’s then a P15 tricycle ride.

  • See

    Centrop

    Opposite the hospital is this small zoo and research centre housing 16 species of indigenous mammals, reptiles and birds, including the critically endangered Negros bleeding-heart pigeon, Philippine spotted deer (only found on Negros and Panay) and the Visayan warty pig. Donations are appreciated, and needed, as conditions are worrisome. Cetrop plans to relocate to Valencia in 2018.

  • See

    Silliman University Anthropology Museum

    Housed in Hibbard Hall on the university campus, this very nice anthropology and ethnobotany collection includes artefacts from the indigenous Negritos and the Islamic period, including a massive ceremonial 10ft-long kris (sword).

  • See

    San Sebastian Cathedral

    Worth a look is this impressive 19th-century cathedral built from coral stone (quarried from Guimaras) across from the city's central plaza. It's especially striking at night when its two bell towers are illuminated.

  • See

    Negros Museum

    Houses an eclectic collection, from a room dedicated to the sugar industry to one containing toys from around the world. Don't miss the fake cannons used to scare the Spanish, including coconut cannonballs. It also has a small art gallery, a gift shop and a popular outdoor cafe.