Huaraz & the Cordilleras
Ground zero for outdoor-adventure worship in Peru, the Cordilleras are one of the preeminent hiking, trekking and backpacking spots in South America. Wherever you throw your gaze, perennially frozen white peaks razor their way through expansive mantles of lime-green valleys. In the recesses of these prodigious giants huddle scores of pristine jade lakes, ice caves and torrid springs. The Cordillera Blanca is one of the highest mountain ranges in the world outside the Himalayas, and its 18 ostentatious summits of more than 19,685ft (6000m) will not let you forget it for a second.
Huaraz is the urban decompression chamber through which practically all hikers, trekkers and mountaineers pass and swap stories. Plans of daring ice climbs, mountain-biking exploits and rock-climbing expeditions are hatched over ice-cold beers in fireplace-warmed hostels and bars. Lurking quietly on the sidelines, and worth a day of quiet contemplation, are the enigmatic 3000-year-old ruins of Chavín de Huántar.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Huaraz & the Cordilleras.
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Laguna Parón
The largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca — a snowcapped range of the Andes in west central Peru — and a gorgeous natural reservoir, Laguna Paron is a unique destination for hikers, rock climbers and nature enthusiasts. Located within the Huascaran National Park and 62 miles north of the hiking mecca Huaraz, the 17.1 square mile lake is distinguished by its striking turquoise hue, a result of high concentrations of dissolved lime. From its shores visitors can take in precious views of formidable peaks blanketed in fresh snow (including Artesonraju, the pyramid peak many believe to have inspired the logo of Paramount Pictures). Listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1985, Laguna Parón can be reached by car or by foot. Having arrived at this awe-inspiring body of water at 4185 meters above sea level, the serene environment welcomes one to meditate, rock climb, kayak or even set up camp near the quiet shores. How to get to Laguna Parón Most people visit the lake as part of an organized tour out of Huaraz or Caraz (from S/50), as the logistics of getting to Laguna Parón — whether by car, hike, or a combo — can become complicated. From Lima, Huaraz can be reached by an 8hr bus ride (take a night bus to pass the time sleeping). A variety of companies whose offices are spread throughout the capital city offer the commute. One of the better recommended is MovilBus. The city of Huaraz is not large, and a short stroll around the plaza will lead you to numerous offers from local agencies and guides for full-day tours of Laguna Parón. Be sure that the guide you hire is certified for Laguna Parón and expect to pay between S/50-70 per person for a group tour. Reputable tours won’t set out until 7:30am or 8am the following day, so take the first day in Huaraz to acclimatize (the city is 3052m/10,013ft above sea level). If you want to venture to Laguna Parón on your own, you will need to commute from Huaraz to Caraz by "combi" (public shuttle van). The 45-mile ride takes less than two hours and costs between S/6-8 per person. These vans depart throughout the day and can be found on Jr. Cajamarca, a 10-minute walk north of the Plaza de Armas in Huaraz. Having arrived in Caraz, find a taxi (there are no rideshare apps here) that is willing to take you to the lake and wait until you are ready to return. Including a wait time of 2-3 hours, a round-trip taxi ride will cost between S/150-180. The bumpy ride takes nearly two hours. Walking to Laguna Parón Those in physical shape and with proper acclimatization to the altitude can hike to Laguna Parón from the town of Parón, a S/8-10 combi ride from Caraz. The 8-mile hike can take three to five hours, depending on stamina as it is quite steep and rocky. Be warned: signs along the route are few and far between, another reason to hire a local guide. Apps such as Maps.me can be helpful navigating the route even without a wi-fi or data connection. Trekkers looking to return to Caraz the same day must get back to the town of Parón before 3pm, when the last shuttle van leaves, or should coordinate for a taxi to wait at the park entrance. What to do at Laguna Parón The lake continues to promote water-based activities despite the fact that its water level was lowered from 75 meters to 15 meters in the mid-1980s to prevent a collapse of Huandoy’s moraine. You can rent a kayak and navigate the smooth frigid waters for half an hour (S/20). Families may be interested in taking a boat ride, though it is costlier and lasts far less time (S/10 per person, and just 15 minutes). Rock climbers will find a challenge at Torre de Parón, known as the Sphinx. There are at least 13 wall routes on the granite monolith. Take an easy hike to the lookout point, the Mirador. This 30 to 40 minute trek is well marked and leads to a prime view (and plenty of photo opportunities) of the turquoise lake. But take your time as you inch your way up in altitude. Looking to soak up the most of your time in Laguna Parón? Campers are welcome and can camp without a fee, though there are no amenities or equipment available on site. You'll need to bring a tent, a warm sleeping bag, plenty of layers and all your food. The following day be sure to take everything with you, including your trash of course, to continue to preserve this pristine natural gem. Tickets and other practicalities Entrance tickets to the lake can be purchased once you’ve reached Huascaran National Park. The entrance fee is S/5. Buy food and water in Huaraz or Caraz, whichever will be the final city/town before heading up to the lake as there are no guarantees of finding vendors at Laguna Parón. The best time to visit is between April and September, when it is sunnier and dry in the Andes. Take a day or two in Huaraz or Caraz to acclimatize to the high altitude. The lake is located at over 4,000 meters above sea level, and rushing to the top can result in stomach sickness or extreme headaches. Restaurant options in Caraz are slim, though La Peña del Gordo is a prime spot to try local flavors, including charqui, a dehydrated meat typically beef or alpaca. Have plenty of Peruvian soles on hand as all transportation, restaurants and entrance fees are all paid in cash not with a bank card.
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Lagunas Llanganuco
A dirt road ascends 1350m from Yungay, winding over 28km to the Llanganuco Valley and its two robin-egg blue lakes, which are also known as Laguna Chinancocha and Laguna Orconcocha. Nestled in a glacial valley just 1000m below the snow line, these pristine lagoons practically glow under the sun in their bright turquoise and emerald hues. There’s a half-hour trail hugging Chinancocha past a jetty and picnic area to where sheer cliffs plunge into the lake. You can take a boat out on the lake for S5. Continuing on the road past the lake you'll see a mirador with killer views of the mountain giants of Huascarán (6768m), Chopicalqui (6345m), Chacraraju (6108m), Huandoy (6395m) and others. The road continues over the pass of Portachuelo (4760m) to Yanama on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca. The Lagunas Llanganuco is a popular day trip from Huaraz (from around S60) and can get relatively crowded. Bear in mind that this tour is primarily tailored around sightseeing not hiking, with a fair degree of shopping stops included along the way. You'll be able to stop briefly by the lakes on the more hiking-orientated Laguna 69 trip. The lakes can also be reached by colectivo (shared transportation) or taxi from Yungay. Round-trip colectivos leave from Yungay’s small terminal on the main highway (S30), allowing about two hours in the lake area. A national-park admission fee of S30 is charged. Alternatively you can take a combi heading to Yanama, but it costs the same and you may have difficulty getting back to town. A private round-trip taxi from Yungay will cost around S100 to S120. Go in the early morning for the clearest views, especially in the low season.
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Pastoruri Glacier
Still hanging on by the skin of its teeth high up in the Cordillera Blanca, the rapidly retreating Pastoruri glacier is one of the few remaining glaciers in tropical South America. Despite its lofty vantage (5050m), it is the only icy monolith in the Peruvian Cordillera accessible by road. Due to its remoteness and the lack of public transportation serving it, the glacier is usually tackled as part of an organized day trip from Huaraz. The tour involves a 40-minute hike from the car park to the shores of the small lake into which the ice disgorges – a challenging walk considering the altitude (horses can be hired). The Pastoruri, like many Andean glaciers, has lost nearly a third of its size in the last 30 years. Within the next decade, it’s likely it will disappear altogether. Not surprisingly, the visitor numbers have receded with the ice. Back in the 1990s, it was one of Huaraz’ main tourist attractions. People came to walk, climb and ski on the immense ice field. These days, walking on the glacier is prohibited and the ice flow is promoted more as a poster-child for climate change than for its grand physical presence. Day tours have padded out their Pastoruri itinerary to include other sights on the way out and back. The glacier is located 70km southeast of Huaraz and reached by turning east off PE-3N several kilometers south of Catac.
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Monumento Nacional Wilkahuaín
This small Wari ruin about 8km north of Huaraz is remarkably well preserved, dating from about AD 600 to 900. It’s an imitation of the temple at Chavín done in the Tiwanaku style (square temples on raised platforms). Wilkahuaín means ‘grandson’s house’ in Quechua. The three-story temple has seven rooms on each floor, each originally filled with bundles of mummies. The bodies were kept dry using a sophisticated system of ventilation ducts. A one-room museum gives some basic background information in English and Spanish. To get here by foot take a taxi to 'El Pinar' (S7) from where there are two paths leading to the ruins – a direct route via the main road (6km) or a longer but more scenic route via Marian. Alternatively, a taxi direct to the ruins will set you back around S25. There are actually two sets of ruins. Buy your ticket at the lower complex. It's a 10-minute walk along a dirt road to the smaller second complex (Wilkahuaín Pequeno). Avoid taking the path from the ruins down to the baths at Monterrey as robberies have been reported on this stretch.
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Laguna Purhuay
In a scoop of a valley 8km above Huari and just inside the Parque Nacional Huascarán, this idyllic lake is well set up for day excursions, but is surprisingly little visited. You can rent kayaks from the friendly park attendant (S10 per hour), follow the lakeshore to the pre-Hispanic ruins of Mama Shoco, or enjoy local trout at a lakeside restaurant. Camping (S40 per night) is also available. It's possible to walk to the lake from Huari along an unpaved road (a path cuts off some of the corners). Alternatively, hire a taxi for around S60 round-trip. Be sure to stop in the village of Acopalca on the way up, known for its trout farms and plethora of fish restaurants specializing in cerviche. The two- or three-day Huari to Chacas trek that forges across the mountains via the San Bartolomé Pass starts on the lakeshore.
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Punta Winchus
A remote 4157m pass in the Cordillera Negra is the center of a huge stand of 5000 rare Puya raimondii plants; the biggest known for these 10m-tall members of the pineapple family, which take 100 years to mature and in full bloom flaunt up to 20,000 flowers each. On a clear day you have an astounding 145km panorama from the Cordillera Blanca all the way to the Pacific Ocean. It’s 45km west of Caraz and reached by tour vehicles. The Punta makes for a fabulous 45km bike ride – most of it downhill (catch a colectivo from Caraz to the top).
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Museo Regional de Ancash
The Museo Regional de Ancash houses one of the most significant collections of ancient stone sculptures in South America lined up in a garden out back. Most of them are from the Recuay culture (400 BC–AD 600) and the Wari culture (AD 600–1100). Otherwise the collection is limited to a few mummies and some trepanned skulls.
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Mirador de Retaqeñua
Mirador de Retaqeñua is about a 45-minute walk southeast of the center and has great views of the city and its mountainous backdrop. Unfortunately, robberies in the area in recent years have made walking here less enticing. Check information on the ground before setting out. If in doubt, take a taxi (S15).
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Jirón José Olaya
On the east side of town, Jirón José Olaya is the only street that remained intact through the earthquakes and provides a glimpse of what old Huaraz looked like; go on Sunday when a street market sells regional foods.