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Justin Foulkes

The Western Fjords

Scoured and gouged by glaciers, ancient and modern, Western Norway's deep, sea-drowned valleys are covered by steep, rugged terrain. It's a landscape that is so utterly unique and so profoundly beautiful that it is one of the most desirable destinations in the world.

Although overshadowed by the sublime fjords, the coastline is none the less extraordinary, blasted by an often ferocious ocean and backed closely by deep green mountain peaks.

Ferries are a way of life in the west. These reliable workhorses make navigating the insane geography possible, but are also an enjoyable part of your journey as they offer staggering, otherwise inaccessible, panoramas.

This is great hiking country, whether wild walking, following one of the many signed trails or lumbering along in a guided glacier-walking group. And if, after so much fresh air, you crave some small-town sophistication, the bijou art-nouveau settlement of Ålesund has that in spades.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Western Fjords.

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    Trollstigen

    This twisting, sky-topping corkscrew of a road is the most famous stretch of tarmac in Norway. Completed in 1936 after eight years of labour, the Troll's Ladder is a stunning feat of road building, spiralling up the mountainside through 11 hairpin bends and a 1:12 gradient, and after heavy rain, waterfalls cascade down the mountainside, drenching cars as they pass. To add to the thrill, much of it is effectively single-lane, meaning traffic jams and passing vehicles are part of the hair-raising experience. At the crest of the pass, a gravity-defying platform and a series of viewpoints have been built out of rusting steel and concrete, a striking artificial counterpoint to the bare rock and natural scenery all around. Teetering precipitously over the plunging cliff and allowing stomach-churning views right down the mountain, the site was designed by top architect Reiulf Ramstad and has become one of the most famous locations on the National Tourist Route network: don't miss it. The road can be done in either direction, from Valldal or Andalsnes, a distance of about 38km. The road passes through Reinheimen National Park, established in 2006 and Norway's third largest, where wild reindeer still crop the mosses and soft grass. The pass is usually cleared and open from late May to mid-October, although it's entirely dependent on the seasonal snowfall.

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    Atlanterhavsveien

    The eight storm-lashed bridges of the Atlantic Ocean Road buck and twist like sea serpents, connecting 17 islets between Vevang and the island of Averøya. The UK's Guardian newspaper once crowned it the world's best road trip. For a highway that is barely 8km long, the weight of expectation may be too great, but it's certainly hugely scenic. During the autumn storms you'll experience nature's wrath at its most dramatic. In season, look out for whales and seals offshore. You can do the road in either direction: from Molde, hit the coast at Bud; from Kristiansund and the north, take the new undersea road tunnel that connects with Bremsnes. Whichever your direction, rather than driving the Rv64, which cuts across inland Averøya, choose the quieter, prettier road, signed for Kvernes, which loops around the island's southern coast and takes no longer. Several scenic overlooks are stationed along the route, with striking structures built as part of the Nasjonaleturistvegen project, which aims to promote 18 of Norway's scenic roads and enhance them with cutting-edge architecture. Key stops include the rest area and walking path at Eldhusøya, an island off the southwest of Averøya, and the glass-fronted viewing platform at Askevågen, a little over 10km north of Bud, which gives you a 360-degree panoramic view of the archipelago, the ocean and the shore. The most impressive – and longest – bridge is Storseisund, a gravity-defying marvel that seems to curl and twist on its way from Eide to Averøy island. It's starred in umpteen car advertisements. You don't necessarily need your own car to follow the road, although it does make it a lot more fun. Eide Auto buses link Molde and Kristiansund year-round. There are five daily buses from Monday to Friday, two on Saturday and one on Sunday. It's a 2¼ hour return trip, although if you buy the day ticket you can hop on and off at will.

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    Kinn Island

    If you're on limited time, a visit to this little island is a great way of getting a flavour of the coastline around Florø. After a quick boat ride from the quay, you're met by a guide on the island who takes you on a 40-minute, 1km walk up to see the island's famous stone church, telling tales of the island and Florø's fishing heritage on the way. The stout stone church, dating from the 12th century, is stunning. Afterwards, you can hike up to the top of the island's hill, Kinnaklova, for panoramic views before catching the boat back home. Bookings for the boat trip, along with several other offshore islands, can be made through the tourist office in Florø. On the second or third weekend in June, it's the site of the Kinnespelet pageant, which celebrates the history of the church on the island.

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    Aurlandsfjellet

    This 45km road is one of Norway's most fabulous, climbing from sea level to the desolate, boulder-strewn high plateau that separates Aurland and Lærdalsøyri (Lærdal). Even if you don't opt for the whole route, drive the first 8km from Aurland to the magnificent Stegastein observation point. It's a strictly summer-only drive: the road is impassable in winter, and even in midsummer you'll probably still see snowbanks lining the roadsides (hence it's local nickname, Snøvegen – the Snow Road). Now designated as a National Tourist Route, it's a real roller coaster. The highway is narrow and winding for much of its length, so be prepared to take things slow and let other traffic pass.

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    Jugendstil Senteret

    The city's unique architectural heritage is documented in a former pharmacy, the first listed Jugendstil monument in Ålesund. Apart from the building's own exquisite and almost entirely original interior, including a sinuous staircase and florid dining room, displays include textiles, ceramics, furniture, posters and other ephemera. Even if you're not a keen aesthete, a 'Time Machine' capsule is great fun, presenting 'From Ashes to Art Nouveau', a 14-minute multimedia story of the rebuilding of Ålesund after the great fire. The museum shop is inside the pharmacy and still has most of its furniture and fixtures in situ – it's a delight. Ticket price also covers entry to KUBE, next door.

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    Urnes Stave Church

    If you only have time on your itinerary to visit one stave church, the one at Urnes has to figure at the top of the list (along with Borgund). Dating from the 12th century, it's Norway's oldest place of worship and a Unesco World Heritage Site. Serenely placed on the shores of Lustrafjorden, backed by lofty mountains, and covered in elaborate wood carvings of intertwining vines and battling beasts, it looks like a forgotten set from Lord of the Rings. The present church was mostly built around 1170 on the site of the original chapel, built around 100 years before. Ticket prices include an interesting 45-minute tour in English.

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    Rauma Railway

    A classic Norwegian train ride that railway buffs definitely won't want to miss, the 114km-long Rauma Railway clatters from Åndalsnes and Dombås, high in the mountains of central Norway. It's a super trip, taking in fjords, forests, valleys, lakes and mountains en route, and passing through six tunnels and 32 bridges. There's also a shorter summer-only tourist train with on-board commentary that runs twice daily from June to August from Åndalsnes' lakeside station up to Bjorli, at 600m. Bookings can be made online or at the tourist office.

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    Stegastein

    Projecting out high above the fjord at an altitude of 630m, this marvel of modern engineering is one of Norway's great viewing points. Clad in pine and balancing on worryingly slender steel legs, it seems to roll down into the fjord, with nothing but a glass rail between you and a long, long drop. It's popular, so it's worth getting up early or staying late to have it to yourself. It's about 8km up the narrow, winding road from Aurland.

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    Norwegian Glacier Museum

    You can't miss this striking museum: it's a concrete wedge marooned among a sea of grass on the way into Fjærland, and even has a couple of model woolly mammoths outside. It provides a great overview of general glacier geology, as well as process of fjord formation, and the ecology and wildlife of Jostedalsbreen itself. Highlights are the simulated ice tunnel and the tusk of a Siberian woolly mammoth who met an icy demise 30,000 years ago.