Image by Wendy Connett / Getty
Nicaragua's Meseta Central (Central Valley) offers a picturesque patchwork of lagoons, volcanic peaks and sleepy colonial villages. Few visitors head here for more than a short day-trip from nearby Granada, leaving plenty of room for exploration and singular encounters with the region's remarkable natural, cultural and artistic imprint.
Head out to the Pueblos Blancos, where each village has its own specialty, from exquisite pottery to handcrafted wooden furniture. The villages also hold exuberant religious festivals.
Towering over all of this is cantankerous Volcán Masaya whose recent activity briefly pelted the surrounding countryside with rocks, and whose crater bubbles restlessly with molten magma.
Sloping down from the meseta are the Carazo towns – home to some of Nicaragua's oldest coffee farms and pleasant stopovers on the way to a stretch of coast with several low-key fishing villages.
At the time of writing, political unrest in the country has turned Masaya, a popular destination known for its artisan market and aficionados of traditional craftsmanship, into the center of political strife and violence.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Masaya & Los Pueblos Blancos.
Volcano
Parque Nacional Volcán MasayaDescribed by the Spaniards as the gates of hell, the craters that comprise Volcán Masaya National Park are the most easily accessible active volcanoes in the country. The two volcanoes at the park, Masaya and Nindirí, together comprise five craters. Of these, Cráter Santiago is still very active and bubbling with red-hot lava. The park entrance is just 7km from Masaya on the Managua highway and most tour operators in Granada run evening trips to the crater.
Fort
Fortaleza De CoyotepeBuilt in 1893 atop Cerro de los Coyotes, this fortress saw the last stand of Benjamín Zeledón, the 1912 hero of resistance to US intervention. The marines managed to take the fortress – as witnessed by a young man named Sandino, who vowed his revenge. Later, it was Somoza's worst prison and the Guardia Nacional’s last stronghold, overrun during the Sandinistas’ 1979 offensive. Entrance includes a dungeon tour. Hop in a Managua-bound bus (US$0.40) or taxi (US$1) to get here.
Museum
Museo Arqueológico TendiríStarted in 1910, this private collection consists of a wealth of objects - mostly from the Chorotega culture that flourished between AD 1250–1500. The curator is happy to lead you around and explain to you the purpose of the incense burners, various ceremonial objects, jaguar-headed metates and funereal urns. Also look out for the collection of wooden masks (c 1936) from the regional fiestas patronales (saints days).
Viewpoint
MiradorCatarina’s main claim to fame offers views across the startling blue waters of Laguna de Apoyo to Granada and Lago de Nicaragua all the way to Ometepe. This spot is rumored to have been the favourite place to meditate of a youthful Augusto C Sandino (Nicaraguan revolutionary who rebelled again the US), though don't come with expectations of peace and quiet, since the mirador comes with its own attendant circus of marimba players, street-food sellers and pony rides.
Church
Iglesia de San JerónimoAmong the major buildings worst hit by the earthquake of 2000 (which also destroyed about 80 homes) was Iglesia de San Jerónimo, built in 1928, the spiritual heart of Masaya and one of the most recognizable silhouettes on the skyline. But that hasn't stopped anyone from celebrating the longest fiestas patronales (saints days) in Nicaragua, with their epicenter, as always, right here. Seek permission to climb the bell tower for impressive views of the city.
Nature Centre
Gaia EstateBirdwatching and coffee tours are conveniently rolled into one at Gaia Estate, a lush, 90-acre organic coffee farm. Over 150 species of birds live here, and forested trails lead past 60 species of trees. From Diriamba's Puma gas station turn right towards Diriamba Stadium, then right again in front of the stadium and drive 4.5km to the village of San Carlos. The road curves left and the entrance to Bosques de Gaia (known locally as 'Miramar') is past the curve.
Museum
Museo del FolcloreInside the Mercado Artesanías complex, this small museum focuses on dance, local myths and the cultural traditions of Masaya. Apart from excellent photos taken at various festivals, it showcases outlandish costumes from the fiestas patronales (saints days). Look out for the black devil, the red devil and macabre figures from Nicaragua's folklore: the ghostly cart, drawn by skeletal bullocks, the Padre Sin Cabeza, La Llorona and the Chancha Bruja.
Viewpoint
Mirador el BoqueteFrom the village of Diriá, a road leads up to the Mirador el Boquete, a peaceful viewpoint overlooking Laguna de Apoyo, without the crowds that the similar viewpoint in Catarina attracts. Ignore the lackluster places to eat and, if you're feeling energetic, take the steep trail down to a little beach (30 to 40 minutes) from where you can swim in the lagoon.
Nature Reserve
Reserva Ecológica La MaquinaTake a dip in the pools beneath spectacular waterfalls at this lovely nature reserve, then explore the short hiking trails that traverse the 154-hectare property – mainly primary dry tropical forest with a few bonus waterfalls and big trees, including huge strangler figs.