- 2 Weeks
Morocco is a big country, but in two weeks you can still comfortably cover a lot of ground and explore the best of what it has to offer, from imperial cities to mountains and desert.
Next, cross the Middle Atlas via Midelt for your first startling taste of Moroccan kasbah architecture, and the abandoned mining town of Aouli, dropped into the crevasse of a pretty gorge. Continue all the way to Merzouga, Morocco’s gateway to the Sahara. Saddle up your camel and sleep under the stars amid the perfectly sculpted Erg Chebbi.
Shadowing the High Atlas as you head west brings you to the Todra Gorge for a day's hiking amid the canyons and palmeraies (palm groves). From here, head past Ouarzazate to Ait Ben Haddou, with its fairy-tale-like 11th-century kasbah.
En route to the Atlantic, check into a riad in Marrakesh, and spend as many sunsets as possible on the theatrical Djemaa El Fna square. Don’t stop until you reach artsy seaside medina and fishing port Essaouira.
Circling the South
- 3 Weeks
This itinerary takes you deep into the south for wild mountain and desert landscapes, far from clicking cameras, and with plenty of activities to stimulate the mind and body.
Agadir is a handy entry point, but adventurers will want to leave quickly. Head to tiny but vibey Tafraoute, surrounded by beautiful Anti Atlas scenery such as the Ameln Valley, with its lush palmeraies (palm groves) and pink-hued houses. Spend a few days trekking through the valley and up Jebel El Kest, bike past rock formations and engravings to the surreal Pierres Bleues, known as the Painted Rocks, and continue south through the Ait Mansour Gorges. At the far end of the gorges, where the beautiful scenery belies the ancient slave routes that passed this way, stay in the Afella-Ighir oasis. Use Tiwadou as a base for more trekking or discovering the rock carvings at Ukas.
By now you’ll have developed a taste for Morocco’s secluded southern corners. Once back in Tafraoute, wind east through the Anti Atlas and descend to the equally silent and epic Sahara. The last stop before Jebel Bani and a whole lot of hamada (stony desert), Tata makes a convenient base for exploring the oases, kasbahs, agadirs (fortified granaries) and magnificent rock engravings in spots such as Akka. A dusty journey to the east, the yellow-gold dunes of Erg Chigaga are more remote and less visited than Merzouga. In nearby M’Hamid, find yourself a camel to lead you north into the kasbah-littered Draa Valley.
At the top of valley, head back towards the mountains. Commandeer a bike (mountain or motor), horse, mule or dromedary in film favourite Ouarzazate, where the stony desert landscape has been a celluloid stand-in for Tibet, Rome, Somalia and Egypt. Return to the coast via Taliouine, where you can buy the world’s most expensive spice in Africa’s saffron capital. Pause here, or in Taroudant, for a trekking reprise in a mountainous area such as the Tichka Plateau. With its red walls and backdrop of snowcapped peaks, Taroudant has hassle-free echoes of Marrakesh. Its souqs and squares are pleasant places to relax, and it’s handy for Agadir’s Al Massira Airport.
The Med and the mountains
- 3 Weeks
In the north the Mediterranean littoral and the Rif Mountains have seen huge investment from the government. Domestic tourism has boomed as a result, but travellers are yet to discover the region in numbers.
Start in Tangier, ideally arriving by ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to feel the thrill of crossing from Europe to Africa. In the mid-20th century, characters from gunrunners to beatnik literati mixed in this legendary port city. After a few days taking in the history, nightlife and restaurants, skip inland to Tetouan, the old capital of Spanish Morocco, with its charming blend of Arab medina and Andalusian architecture. The Spanish left a lighter imprint on nearby Chefchaouen, nestled in the Rif Mountains with its gorgeous blue-painted medina. It’s tempting to spend a string of sunsets listening to the minarets chorus each other’s call to prayer, but this is also a good trekking spot. You can head deep into the mountains on a five-day trek via riverside Akchour to Bou Ahmed, a fishing village in the Oued Bouchia valley.
Continue east along the coast to the proud, modern seaside resort of Al Hoceima, gateway to the dry canyons and limestone cliffs of the Al Hoceima National Park. Walk to the park along the coast, or book a memorable tour including hiking or mountain biking and a homestay with a Berber family. En route to the Algerian border, there’s more fine scenery in the Beni-Snassen Mountains, which you can enjoy in a swimming pool with mountain views, or a 300-year-old rural lodge. With its gorges, caves, mesa and Barbary sheep, this verdant area is far removed from classic images of Morocco. In the Zegzel Gorge, pluck a kumquat and see why the Romans remarked on this small citrus fruit.
From here, head to Oujda to refresh yourself with some city comforts, before taking the train to that grandest of imperial cities, Fez. Dive into the medina and relax in a riad, but if you find yourself missing the countryside, you can make an easy day (or several-day) trip into the cedar-clad Middle Atlas around the Berber market town of Azrou.
- 3 Weeks
Morocco’s Atlantic seaboard takes you from the clamour of the north to the quieter coastline of the south. It's a landscape where cities give way to dramatic sea cliffs, long sandy beaches and picturesque fishing ports.
Take the ferry from Spain to Tangier, at once a quintessentially Moroccan mosaic and a decadent outpost of Europe. Catch the train south, first to chilled-out Asilah, with its whitewashed charms, and then to Rabat, with its colonial architecture and palm-lined boulevards. Follow Casablanca's suburbanites taking the spectacular ocean road to Oualidia, the St Tropez lookalike with a perfect crescent lagoon.
Further south, the hippies once gravitated to Essaouira, and its white-walled ramparts, bohemian beat and renovated riads still make travellers linger. When you’ve eaten your fill at the outdoor fish grills, follow Jimi Hendrix and today’s surfers to the peaceful beaches at Diabat and Sidi Kaouki.
Past more surf spots, Agadir is a modern family-friendly seaside resort, but the beaches and boutique accommodation of Mirleft may be more appealing for other travellers, along with the Spanish art-deco treasures of Sidi Ifni.
Empire and Atlas
- 10 Days
This short route gives a fast-paced introduction into the best that Morocco has to offer – its ancient storied cities and medinas, and the mighty Atlas mountains that ripple in waves down the length of the country.
This itinerary begins in two cities once ruled by enlightened dynasties. Throw back a shot of Maghrebi exoticism in Fez, where modern Morocco and its rich past crowd for space in the extraordinary medina. Next, catch your breath in nearby Meknes, sadly bypassed by many travellers despite its echoes of Sultan Moulay Ismail’s glory days.
A detour north takes you to Volubilis, Morocco’s best-preserved ancient city, and testament to the Roman Empire’s astonishing breadth. Nearby Moulay Idriss, with the mausoleum of the founder of Morocco’s first imperial dynasty, is another wonderful antidote to urban clamour.
Head south into the Middle Atlas, stopping at the Berber town Sefrou, with its charming medina. From here, take the cross-country route via Beni Mellal, skirting the edge of the High Atlas to the icon of contemporary Morocco: Marrakesh. The city’s souqs, street performers and imperial architecture form an intoxicating mix.