Ceramics are everywhere in Fez – from the distinctive blue pottery to the intricate mosaics decorating fountains and riads. Art Naji is the place to go to see the real deal being made. The centre is a professional operation, and free guides will take you through the entire production process, from pot-throwing to the painstaking hand painting and laying out of zellige (colourful geometric mosaic tilework) – it’s a joy to behold. The potteries are about 500m east of Bab El Ftouh, an easy trip in a petit taxi.
The clay to make the pottery comes from the hills around Fez and the region's fascinating traditional production methods are still very much en vogue. Pieces made here are of the highest quality and lead-free, and prices in the large showroom reflect that, running much higher than what you will see in the medina. Expect to pay from Dh100 for a tiny bowl – big plates start at about Dh500 (though there's no pressure to buy). You can even commission a mosaic and arrange for it to be shipped home.