El Cuyo lies along the shore at the end of the road from Río Lagartos. This tiny fishing village has a clear white-sand beach, muddy waters and a windy coast. In recent years it's become a kiteboarding mecca for those in the know, and several outfits offer classes. The town sees a few local tourists looking for a short beach vacation, but not many foreigners visit here. Maybe this is the off-the-beaten-track spot you've been looking for.

At El Cuyo the road travels through broad expanses of grassy savanna with palms and some huge-trunked trees, passing the site of the original founding of Valladolid, in 1543. At Colonia Yucatán, 38km south of El Cuyo, you can head east to pick up the road to Chiquilá and Isla Holbox or west to Tizimín.