Johor

The Seribuat Archipelago, off the east coast of Johor, is a constellation of some of Malaysia’s most beautiful islands. Of the cluster of 64 islands, most people only know of Pulau Tioman, the largest, which is actually a part of Pahang. This leaves the rest of the archipelago as far less-visited dots of tranquillity.

Divers can expect to see excellent coral and an array of marine life, from butterfly fish and parrotfish to barracuda, giant clams and more. The waters around the archipelago are frequently whipped into foam during the monsoon (November to February), so ferry services can be patchy, especially during the high monsoon (November and December).

The forest at Endau-Rompin National Park dates back over 248 million years, to the Permian Triassic period – this is a pristine, waterfall-laden jungle teeming with animals, waterfalls and knockout views. Straddling the Johor–Pahang border, the 870-sq-km park is the second-largest on the peninsula after the much more developed and accessible Taman Negara. Not nearly as many visitors venture to Endau-Rompin, so there is far less hiking traffic but, as there are few trails exploration is limited. What you can see, however, is really quite spectacular.

There are two main entryways to the park, the principal one at Kampung Peta, accessed from Kahang, and a less-developed one at Selai, about a 40-minute drive from Bekok. No trails link the two areas so you have to choose to base yourself at one or the other. A third, lesser-used entry is at Kuala Kinchin in Pahang province, 26km from Kuala Rompin.

Johor’s capital city of Johor Bahru (JB for short) has been repaved and replanted and is well on the way to rebranding itself, after years of being habitually criticised as a dirty, chaotic border town.

Most travellers skip southern Malaysia's largest city, but for intrepid souls there's a handful of worthwhile museums, temples and mosques, shopping and party zones. If that ain't your thing, JB also has a Legoland, where 'everything is awesome'.

As one of the five ‘economic zones’ of the Iskandar development project, which will radically change southern Malaysia over the next decade, JB is in for one hell of a makeover yet. The 720-hectare Danga Bay area, 5km from the Causeway, is poised to be a financial and commercial centre. Work on the development began in 2006 and is expected to be completed in 2025. For now, Danga Bay is a sprawl of construction.

A good-looking spot on the river, with plenty of heritage architecture and an infectiously languorous mood, the royal town of Muar (once known as Bandar Maharani, or 'Empress Town') was historically a very important commercial centre. So important in fact, that it had its own rail system, known as Muar State Railways, running from 1889 to 1925.

With each road in its central core painted a certain colour, Muar is very pretty and well worth spending a day or two exploring. It was also voted the cleanest city in the Asean region in 2018. Most of the heritage buildings are handily inscribed with their year of construction.

Central Chinatown sees most of the action, showing off its handsome pre-war architecture, temples and a handful of good restaurants and Chinese teahouses. Muar makes for an intriguing and rewarding off-the-beaten-track stop between Melaka and Johor Bahru.

According to legend, the highest mountain in Johor is the home of Puteri Gunung Ledang, a mythical princess whose presence is said to permeate the jungle slopes. Climbing Gunung Ledang (also called Mt Ophir; 1276m) is a very demanding – yet rewarding – two-day return trip from the National Park Office to the summit. Consider a side trip to the Puteri Waterfalls, which feature a cool bathing pool. The route is dangerous in parts; mandatory guides cost RM140 per day.

Just 90km southwest of Johor Bahru city centre, on the southernmost tip of mainland East Asia, this national park protects shorebirds and mangrove swamps. Tourism is just gaining a foothold so there's little infrastructure beyond a small visitor centre, some boardwalks and a jetty.