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Southern Madagascar

Southern Madagascar is a wide-open adventure among some of nature’s most dramatic forms. The stark desert canyons of Parc National Isalo rival those of Arizona. The west coast offers gorgeous coastal settlements that serve as gateways to the fifth-largest coral reef in the world. And vast kilometres of spiny forest contain the strangest and most formidable plants on earth. The cape is also the last stop before Antarctica. There are two scruffy cities, Tuléar (Toliara) and Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro), but that's not why you come. The question is how to tackle a region of this size. For many, a lodge in Isalo and a slice of beach are enough. But for others, the south is the perfect recipe for off-road exploration, when the security situation permits. After all, away from the RN7 it's strictly 4WD country, ripe for the adventure of a lifetime.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Southern Madagascar.

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Parc National Andohahela
This 760-sq-km park protects some of the last remnants of rainforest in southern Madagascar, as well as spiny forest and a remarkable 12 species of lemurs. It also boasts 129 recorded species of birds, and a variety of amphibians and reptiles, including crocodiles. In short, this is one of Madagascar's most diverse parks when it comes to both landscapes and wildlife. Questionable security in surrounding areas is our only explanation for why the park remains so little known. The park's boundaries encompass the Trafonomby, Andohahela and Vohidagoro mountains, the last of which is the source of numerous rivers. The rainforest section of the park offers the best lemur-viewing possibilities. Daytime species include the collared brown lemur, southern lesser bamboo lemur and possibly even the Milne-Edwards' sifaka. Among the occasionally seen nocturnal lemurs, there's the Fleurete's sportive lemur, and rumours persist that the park has a population of aye-ayes…see one and you've hit the jackpot. The park currently maintains three main hiking circuits for visitors and, with an early start, it is possible to visit on a day trip, but it is advisable to camp overnight. If you are interested in longer treks across the rainforest mountains, visit the MNP office in Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro).
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Arboretum d'Antsokay
This is the one must-see attraction in Tuléar. Essentially a 400,000-sq-metre distillation of the entire spiny forest in one place, it's a fantastic collection of 900 plant species; take a guide (tip expected) to learn more about the weird and wonderful plants on show here. It was established by a Swiss botanist and conservationist in 1980; his ancient Citroen that once used to gather the plants is now being consumed by them. Madagascar National Parks (MNP) take note: clone this place. Night tours (Ar10,000) leave at 5.45pm. There's a small museum, a shop, a stylish restaurant and some excellent, inexpensive bungalows, Auberge de la Table, with pool. The arboretum lies about 12km southeast of town, just a few hundred metres from the RN7, so it’s a good stop as you arrive by car. Otherwise take a taxi or ask any taxi-brousse heading toward Befety to drop you off at the junction (you’ll have to walk in). Transfers to Tuléar or the airport cost Ar30,000.
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La Fenêtre de l'Isalo
La Fenêtre de l’Isalo is a popular natural rock window that frames the setting sun, although we actually prefer it for the surrounding views of sweeping plains and weird-and-wonderful rock formations turned golden at sunset. At the time of writing, visitors were encouraged not to visit alone due to the threat of robbery – if there are other vehicles in attendance, take the 800m track off the RN7; the turn-off is around 1.5km south of La Relais de la Reine.
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Parc National Tsimanampetsotse
This 432-sq-km park and its large, ancient salt lake hosts some part-time resident flamingos (April to October). Amid the spiny forest, watch also for a large banyan tree full of parrots and ring-tailed lemurs. The park is home to four further lemur species. Verreaux's sifaka are commonly seen during daylight hours, and keep an eye out for sleeping nocturnal species such as the tiny grey-brown mouse lemur, fat-tailed dwarf lemur and white-footed sportive lemur. The MNP office is located in the town of Efoetse, 3km from Ambola. You can arrange a mandatory guide and itinerary here, and a map of all the current routes is on display. There are several circuits, from 30 minutes (1km) to 3½ hours (7km) in length. A good English-speaking guide is Laurent.
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Reniala Nature Reserve
This is a 0.6-sq-km spiny forest full of baobab trees and some birds. There are two circuits, one of 45 minutes to an hour and the other of 1½ to two hours. The Arboretum in Tuléar is better, but this one's still worth supporting and worth a visit. There's also an on-site lemur rescue centre, with some in cages, others in semiwild enclosures in readiness for their release into the wild. If you're here for the birds before opening time, there's usually a guide who'll show you around; a birding tour costs Ar44,000.
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Réserve Spéciale Beza-Mahafaly
Southwest of the RN7 from Andranovory, the Réserve Spéciale Beza-Mahafaly is better known as a scientific venture rather than a tourist destination, but travellers are welcome to explore its six hiking circuits (750m to 12km). The spiny and riverine forest here harbours four species of lemur (ring-tailed, white-footed and mouse lemur, as well as Verreaux's sifaka), four species of tenrec (including the large-eared tenrec), fossa, radiated tortoise and more than 100 bird species.
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Mangrove Information Center
On the west side of the road, 12km north of Tuléar, a sign directs you to the Mangrove Information Center a 2-sq-km wetland complex created by Honko, a Belgian NGO. The main attraction is a 1.5km wooden boardwalk. It’s a nice place to stretch your legs on the way north, with a trail through the mangroves, educational placards and a lovely tower overlooking a river. Guided tours of between 2km and 4km, and one to three hours in duration, are excellent.
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Libanona Beach
What luck for locals to have this fine beach right in the city! It's known for its surfing, both board and wind. Don't leave your belongings unattended on the sand or they may just disappear. And don't even think about wandering around here at night. But do come during the daytime for one of southern Madagascar's best beaches.
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Village des Tortues
Near Reniala Nature Reserve, this 70,000-sq-metre park protects over 1000 radiated and spider tortoises. A guided tour of the grounds (in English) tells you the full story of these endangered animals and how they are being conserved. It takes less than an hour, so it's a worthy break from the beach.