Antananarivo

Tana’s rova (fortified palace), known as Manjakamiadana (A Fine Place to Rule), is the imposing structure that crowns the city's highest hill. Gutted in a fire in 1995, it remains under endless restoration but the compound can be visited. The palace was designed for Queen Ranavalona I by Scottish missionary James Cameron. The outer stone structure was added in 1867 for Queen Ranavalona II, although the roof and interior remained wooden, much to everyone's regret in 1995…

Opened in early 2018, this fabulous photography museum is Antananarivo's best museum. There are four small rooms showing films (in French, English or Malagasy) that offer a fascinating window on Madagascar's past using archival photos – subject matter includes the history of Madasgacar's seven largest cities, important Malagasy identities from the 19th and 20th centuries, a look at the work of an early Malagasy photo studio, Saklava burial traditions, child rituals and other themes.

One of the best ways to spend time in Tana, this small cooking school teaches you how to prepare, cook and eat three Malagasy dishes. If you arrange with them in advance, you can, for no extra cost, join them at 10am for a trip to a local market for the necessary supplies – itself a fascinating insight into local life.

One of the best addresses in the city for real gourmet cuisine, La Varangue serves an elaborate melange of French gastronomy and Malagasy flavours. Meals are served either in the beautiful dining room, with its low lighting and fabulous antique collection, or on the terrace, which overlooks a charming garden. Booking is advised.

A popular place to pick up souvenirs is this market located about 12km out of town on a bend in the Ivato airport road. There are products from all over the country, including embroidered tablecloths, raffia products, woodcarvings, spices, vanilla, gemstones etc. Bargaining is essential – divide the initial price by three or four and work from there.

Poised atop Ambohimanga hill is the Rova, the fortress-palace. The walls of the compounds were constructed using cement made from sand, shells and egg whites – 16 million eggs were required to build the outer wall alone. Inside, there are two palaces: the traditional palace (1788) of the all-powerful Merina king Andrianampoinimerina, and the European-styled summer palace of Queen Ranavalona I (r 1828–61), constructed by French engineer Jean Laborde in 1870 (he was thought to be Ranavalona’s lover).

You'll find nine species of lemur at this private reserve, 22km west of the capital. It's a good place to visit if you haven't yet seen lemurs elsewhere, or if you need one final lemur fix before you go! The lemurs are free-ranging (except for the two nocturnal species, which are confined to rather small cages) and well habituated, so you'll see them up close. There are about 50 individual lemurs including Coquerel sifakas, ring-tail lemurs and black-and-white ruffed lemurs.

Traditional Malagasy performances of acrobatics, music and speeches, hira gasy events are held most Sunday afternoons in the villages around Antananarivo. Check newspapers for details: entry is generally very cheap (around Ar1000), and the experience is great fun.

Tana’s regional tourist office Ortana also organises a hira gasy (2pm to 5pm Sunday, August and September). Check the venue. In 2019, it was being held in the grounds of the Rova in the Haute-Ville in an effort to revive the tradition. It is free to attend, although spectators normally throw small notes (Ar100 or Ar200 for instance) to show their appreciation.

For a truly indulgent experience, try this fantastic spa with a mosaic swimming pool, Finnish sauna and Turkish bath. The entrance fee also gives you access to the gym. For additional pampering, there is a treatment list an arm long. It’s not cheap (Ar50,000 to Ar150,000), but worth it if you’ve just arrived back in Tana after some hard hiking.