Just outside the village of Takaungu, you fly on the back of a motorbike down dirt roads, past spiky fields of sisal and giant baobabs towering above maize crops. Abruptly, the land ends in jagged black coral cliffs, pounded relentlessly by the rolling waves of the Indian Ocean. It's a desolate and lonely place that seems like a secret portal into Scotland rather than the Kenyan coast. Motorbikes to the cliffs are organised by Distant Relatives (KSh1500 for one or two people).
During low tide, you can scramble down from the path to a naturally formed turret in the rock to better appreciate the crashing waves. Time your scurrying in between waves. Motorbike tours typically take in the Takaungu beach, with a stop at the Zinj shop at the end.