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The starting point for pilgrims over the past 1200 years, Tokushima Prefecture (徳島県), formerly known as Awa, is home to the first 23 of Shikoku's 88 Sacred Temples. Ryōzen-ji is Temple One as it is the first temple pilgrims came to after visiting Kōya-san in Wakayama Prefecture and asking for Kōbō Daishi's support on their journey. To henro (pilgrims), Tokushima is known as Hosshin-no-dōjō, the 'place to determine to achieve enlightenment'. If you haven't got time to walk the 88, the first five temples sit in an east–west line spanning about 15km to the north of the Yoshino River and make a worthy mini-pilgrimage.
These days, notable attractions of the prefecture include the lively Awa-odori Matsuri, which takes place in Tokushima in August; the mighty whirlpools of the Naruto Channel between Shikoku and Awaji-shima; and the surf beaches of the Anan Coast (阿南海岸; Anan-kaigan) to the south.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Tokushima & the Anan Coast.
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Ryōzen-ji is Temple One of the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku pilgrimage. It is called Temple One because it was the first that temple pilgrims came to after arriving on Shikoku following a visit to Kōya-san in Wakayama Prefecture to ask Kōbō Daishi for his support on their journey. Everything you need is here, from guidebooks (in English too) to pilgrim wear and temple stamp books. Savour the serenity and the history – the pilgrimage has been walked for 1200 years.
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The major attraction of Hiwasa, Yakuō-ji, Temple 23, is the last temple in Tokushima Prefecture. Yakuō-ji dates back to the year 726, and is famous as a yakuyoke-no-tera (a temple with special powers to ward off ill fortune during unlucky years). The unluckiest age for men is 42; for women, 33 is the one to watch out for. Kōbō Daishi is said to have visited in 815, the year of his own 42nd birthday.
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One from the 'only in Japan file', this incredible 'ceramic board masterpiece museum' features more than 1000 replicas of priceless Western art on ceramic boards in a five-storey museum built inside a mountain at Naruto Park. Absolutely mind-boggling; there is even a life-size Sistine Chapel, built as part of Otsuka Pharmaceutical Group's 75th anniversary. See the Mona Lisa, the Last Supper, Guernica and more on ceramic boards that will keep them in perfect condition for an estimated 2000 years.
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Dedicated to sea turtles, the museum's name – Caretta – comes from the scientific name for the Loggerhead Sea Turtle. Inside, there's a lot of turtle info, small tanks and a hatchery with baby turtles aged up to three years. The outside pools house turtles from age four upwards. The facility is on Ōhama Beach, known as a turtle egg-laying spot from May to August.
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Got to love this place. Everything at Rise & Win's brewery restaurant in Kamikatsu is recycled from old town buildings, from the incredible spectacle of framed windows that make up the building's facade to the centrepiece 'bottle chandelier'. Kamikatsu is on a mission to be Japan's first zero-waste town and Rise & Win is living the dream, attracting plenty of craft-beer fans to its inventive HQ.
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While most henro over the past 1200 years have struggled up steep mountain paths to get to Tairyū-ji, these days this magnificent mountaintop temple is easily accessed by the Tairyū-ji Ropeway, providing a rare opportunity to visit such an atmospheric haven. It's easy to feel the sacredness amid the tall trees, ancient buildings and pillars of rock.
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This gorgeous hilltop temple is considered one of the most important on the 88 Temple Pilgrimage because it is here at Muroto that Kōbō Daishi achieved enlightenment. Either walk up on the age-old henro trail that starts just northeast of the cape, or drive up the winding road a kilometre to the northwest of the cape. Ancient buildings and statues contribute to a sacred atmosphere.
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For an intriguing bird's-eye view of the whirlpools, you can walk out along this breezy 450m-long walkway hanging underneath the Naruto Bridge, which puts you 42m directly above the action. There is an observation gallery with glass floors through which you can gaze down at the whirlpools. Check the website for the best time to view the whirlpools on the day you go.
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At the foot of Bizan, the 280m-high summit at the southwestern end of Shinmachibashi-dōri, the Bizan Ropeway whizzes you to the top for fine city views. A combined ticket for the cable car, museum and dance show at the Awa Odori Kaikan costs ¥1620.