On its hilltop perch above Ascoli's historic centre, and reached by a seemingly never-ending flight of steps, this villa is a delight. Salvatore, your kindly host, welcomes you to his art-strewn home, where individually designed, parquet-floored rooms swing from classic to contemporary.
A tree-shaded garden, gorgeous views and homemade surprise breakfast treats (fava beans and pecorino on toast with olive oil) clinch the deal. Even more spectacular are the three antique rooms in the farmstead next door, an uber-stylish retreat with copper-accented bathrooms, smoothed cemented flooring and the dreamiest bathtub in Italy, fashioned from a 1.7m wine barrel. You can see Monti Sibillini from the porch.