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West Sumatra

In Sumatra Barat (West Sumatra), fertile uplands ring jungle-clad volcanoes, waterfalls cascade into deep ravines and nature takes a breath in deep, still lakes. Rainforest still clings to the steepest slopes, while rice, tapioca, cinnamon and coffee bring in the wealth.

This is the heartland of the matriarchal Minangkabau, an intelligent, culturally rich and politically savvy people who have successfully exported their culture, language, cuisine and beliefs throughout Indonesia and whose soaring architecture dominates the cities and villages.

Coastal Padang is a transport hub and popular pit stop for surfers, trekkers and indigenous-culture enthusiasts bound for the Mentawai Islands. Scenic traveller-friendly Bukittinggi is surrounded by picturesque villages where traditional artisans still ply their trades, while the gorgeous Danau Maninjau, the secluded Harau Valley and Kerinci Seblat National Park provide plenty of scope for outdoor adventure.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout West Sumatra.

  • Volcano

    Gunung Kerinci

    Dominating the northern end of Kerinci Seblat National Park is Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Southeast Asia’s tallest volcano and one of Sumatra’s most active. On clear days the summit offers fantastic views of Danau Gunung Tujuh and the surrounding valleys and mountains. Summit treks usually start from the national park entrance, 5km from Kersik Tua, and tackle the mountain over two days, camping overnight. A fully guided trip with food, permits, transport and all gear costs anywhere from 900,000Rp to 1,500,000Rp per person.

  • Arts Centre

    PT Studio Songket Palantaloom

    Handicraft and textile fans should not miss this place near Simpang Bukit Batabuah, 7km southeast of Bukittinggi. Dedicated to revitalising the traditional Minangkabau art of weaving songket (silver- or gold-threaded cloth), the studio has trained young weavers (aged 18 to 28) in the art of producing Sumatra’s finest. Phone ahead, and catch a yellow opelet from the Aur Kuning bus terminal to Batu Taba (4500Rp), getting off at the SMKN1 (high school).

  • Lake

    Danau Gunung Tujuh

    At 1996m, the beautiful caldera of Danau Gunung Tujuh is the highest in Southeast Asia and makes for a pleasant day ascent or part of a multiday trek. It takes 3½ hours to climb to the lake from the park entrance, which is 2km from Pelompek village. Camp near the lake if staying overnight. An ojek to the trailhead costs around 15,000Rp. Homestays in Kersik Tua and Palompek can organise two- or three-day treks (from 300,000Rp per day), including a canoe crossing.

  • Plantation

    House of Rafflesia Luwak Coffee

    At this plantation in Batang Palupuh, friendly owner Umul Khairi is happy to explain the process of harvesting, drying and roasting kopi luwak – a smooth, earthy brew produced from coffee beans ingested and excreted by civets (cat-like mammals). While the luwak coffee industry has come under fire for ‘farming’ civets to meet demand for the brew, the House of Rafflesia still operates in the traditional way, collecting wild civet ‘poo’ off the jungle floor.

  • Nature Reserve

    Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve

    This reserve, 16km north of Bukittinggi, is home to many orchid species, as well as the massive Rafflesia arnoldii and Amorphophallus titanum, the largest flowers on the planet – the latter endemic to Sumatra. The rafflesia blooms throughout the year, if briefly, whereas you have to be incredibly lucky to catch the Amorphophallus titanum in bloom at all. Both flowers reek like roadkill. Local buses to Palupuh cost 10,000Rp, a taxi is 10,000Rp and a Grab online taxi 40,000Rp.

  • Palace

    Grand Palace of Pagaruyuang

    In the village of Silinduang Bulan, 5km north of Batu Sangkar, the heartland of the red Tanah Datar clan of Minangkabau, is this epic palace, a replica of the former home of the rulers of the ancient Minangkabau kingdom of Payaruyung. It's equally impressive within, with soaring pillars and ceilings, and walls covered in brightly coloured ceremonial banners. There's a museum inside (no English captions), and three levels you can clamber up for views of the surrounding village and countryside.

  • Lake

    Danau Kerinci

    Danau Kerinci, 20km south of Sungai Penuh, is a sizeable lake nestled between Gunung Raya (2535m) and rice paddies. Stone carvings around the lake suggest that the area supported a large population in megalithic times. Batu Gong (Gong Stone), in the village of Muak, 25km from Sungai Penuh, is thought to have been carved 2000 years ago. To reach the lake, catch a public bus from Sungai Penuh to Sanggaran Agung (15,000Rp). The last return bus leaves around 5pm.

  • Volcano

    Gunung Singgalang

    Climbing dormant Gunung Singgalang (2877m) is a more adventurous undertaking than Gunung Merapi. Highly recommended English-speaking guide Dedi (0813 7425 1312), based in Pandai Sikat – the best starting point for the climb – charges 350,000Rp, and the climb is an eight- to nine-hour roundtrip. Otherwise you can arrange trips through Hello Guesthouse for 400,000Rp (minimum two people) including guide, transport and food. There are campsites by the beautiful crater lake, Telago Dewi.

  • Volcano

    Gunung Marapi

    The smouldering summit of Gunung Merapi (2891m), one of Sumatra’s most active volcanoes, looms large over Bukittinggi around 16km to the east. If Merapi is benign, then visitors typically hike overnight to view sunrise from the summit from the village of Koto Baru; it’s a 12-hour round trip. You’ll need good walking boots, warm clothing, a torch, food and drink and a guide. Travel agencies in Bukittinggi do guided trips to Merapi for around 400,000Rp per person (minimum two people).