The legendary Baliem Valley is the most popular and most accessible destination in Papua’s interior. The Dani people who live here were still dependent on tools of stone, bone and wood when a natural-history expedition led by American Richard Archbold chanced upon the valley in 1938. Dani life has since changed enormously with stone axes being replaced by mobile phones and age-old belief systems with Christianity, but even so the changes are often skin-deep and the valley and surrounding highlands remain one of the world’s last fascinatingly traditional areas. Visiting the Baliem Valley and trekking through high mountain scenery, past neat and orderly Dani villages, takes you to a world far removed from Jakarta and is an honour and an experience to be savoured. For most people it is the highlight of Papua.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Baliem Valley.
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This lovely lake, 30km west of Wamena as the crow flies, sits amid alpine grasslands at 3400m altitude, with dramatic, snow-capped mountains in view (4750m Gunung Trikora rises to the south). The fascinating ecosystem and its flora are draws for nature lovers. The ideal way to visit Habbema is to drive there and trek back through rainforest and villages (three to four days). To do this you will need a guide; find one in Wamena.
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The celebrated mummy is kept at the tiny settlement of Sumpaima, 300m north of Jiwika along the main road from the main village entrance (look for the black ‘Mummy’ sign). Wimontok Mabel was a powerful 18th-century chief here and his blackened corpse is the best preserved and most accessible of its kind near Wamena.
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At Iluwe, 1½ hours up a steep path from Jiwika, is Air Garam, a group of saltwater wells. Villagers soak sections of banana trunk in the water, then dry and burn them and use the resulting ashes as salt. Village boys will show you the way for around 50,000Rp, but to see the process at work, try to find a woman who will accompany you (100,000Rp per person). To avoid climbing in the midday heat, start from Jiwika before 10am.
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In Wosilimo, a 45-minute drive northwest from Wamena, Gua Wikuda is said to be several kilometres long, with an underground river that reaches Danau Anegerak. It's possible to visit the first hundred metres of the cave which has a few stalagmites and stalactites. Ask for the lights to be turned on.
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About 8km from Wamena, nondescript Aikima is famous for its Werapak Elosak mummy, the (supposedly) 300-year-old corpse of a great chief, which was preserved (by smoking) to retain some of his power for the village. You’ll probably be asked to pay 100,000Rp per person for a viewing, but sometimes this price can be bargained down.
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The road north from Jiwika is flanked by rocky hills with several caves. Gua Kotilola is a sizeable cavern up a short, pretty path behind a Dani compound, about 5km north of Jiwika. It contains the bones of past tribal-war victims – though they don’t show these to outsiders. It’s difficult to justify the high entry fee.
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The 280-year-old Alongga Huby mummy can be viewed in Araboda; viewings cost around 80,000Rp (plus another 50,000Rp to the holder).