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The land on the other side of the map, that's north Bali. Although one-sixth of the island's population lives here, this vast region is overlooked by many visitors who stay cocooned in the south Bali−Ubud axis.
The big draw here is the incredible diving and snorkelling at nearby Pulau Menjangan. Arcing around a nearby bay, booming Pemuteran may be Bali's best beach escape. To the east is Lovina, a sleepy beach strip with cheap hotels and even cheaper sunset beer specials. All along the north coast are interesting little boutique hotels, while inland you'll find quiet treks to waterfalls.
Getting to north Bali for once lives up to the cliché: it's half the fun.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout North Bali.
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Sitting 18km southeast of Singaraja, some six or seven separate waterfalls – all fed by upland streams – pour up to 80m over cliffs in a verdant bamboo-forested valley. From the car park, it's a hilly 45-minute, 1km walk through the tiny Sekumpul village, where trees of clove, cacao, jackfruit, mangosteen and more lead the way to steep stairs. Trails wind through the valley from one cascade to the other and its easy to while the day away in their splendor.
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One of the most intriguing temples in north Bali, Pura Maduwe Karang is particularly notable for its sculptured panels, including the famous stone-carved bicycle relief that depicts a gentleman riding a bicycle with a lotus flower serving as the back wheel. It's on the base of the main plinth in the inner enclosure. The cyclist may be WOJ Nieuwenkamp, a Dutch artist who, in 1904, brought what was probably the first bicycle to Bali.
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The grey-brown sand is a little thin and definitely not powdery but you can't beat the setting. The blue waters and surrounding green hills make for a beautiful scene, especially when crimson and orange join the colour palette at sunset. Strolling the beach is popular, as you'd expect. The little fishing village is interesting; walk around to the eastern end of the dogbone to escape a lot of the development. Look for various traditional-style boats being built on the shore.
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About 5km west of Lovina, a sign points to Air Terjun Singsing (Daybreak Waterfall); about 1km from the main road there's a warung (food stall) on the left and a car park on the right. Walk past the warung and along the path for about 200m to the lower falls. The waterfall isn't huge, but the pool underneath is ideal for swimming, though not crystal-clear. The water, cooler than the sea, is very refreshing.
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About 6km northeast of Singaraja is an excellent example of the colourful architectural style of north Bali. Sangsit's Pura Beji is a temple for the subak (village association of rice-growers), dedicated to the goddess Dewi Sri, who looks after irrigated rice fields. The over-the-top sculptured panels along the front wall feature cartoonlike demons and amazing naga (mythical snakelike creatures). The inside also has a variety of sculptures covering every available space. It's 500m off the main road towards the coast.
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A 20-minute walk up some stone stairs from the southern side of the road, a little west of Labuhan Lalang, will bring you to Jayaprana's grave. There are fine views to the north at the top.
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Around 11km south of Singaraja, a well-signposted path goes 800m west from the main road to the touristy waterfall, Air Terjun Gitgit. The path is lined with souvenir stalls and guides to nowhere. The 40m waterfalls pound away and the mists are more refreshing than any air-con. Approximately 2km further up the hill, there's a multitiered waterfall about 600m off the western side of the main road. The path crosses a narrow bridge and follows the river through verdant jungle past several small sets of waterfalls.
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Pemuteran is home to the nonprofit Proyek Penyu, run by Reef Seen Divers' Resort. Turtle eggs and small turtles purchased from locals are looked after here until they're ready for ocean release. Thousands of turtles have been released since 1994. You can visit the small hatchery and make a donation to sponsor and release a tiny turtle. It's just off the main road, along the beach just east of Taman Selini Beach Bungalows.
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This small historical library was established in 1928 by Dutch colonialists and named after the Sanskrit for 'to try'. It has a collection of lontar (dried palm leaf) books, as well as some even older written works in the form of inscribed copper plates called prasasti. Dutch publications, dating back to 1901, may interest students of the colonial period. It's on the same grounds as Museum Buleleng.