Getty Images/Universal Images Group

Nagaland

Long considered the ‘wild east’ of India, Nagaland abounds in primeval beauty and tribal culture. Its dazzling hills and valleys, reaching right up to the India–Myanmar border, are other-worldly places where, until not long ago, headhunting Naga tribes fought off intruders and each other. Today Nagas have abandoned headhunting and turned to Christianity. Traditional lifestyles linger strongest in the north, where many people live in thatched longhouses and follow farming and hunting lifestyles. The sense of Naga identity among the 16 or 17 main tribal groups, with multiple languages but cultural similarities, is strong. Traditional attire comes out in full feather-and-spear colour at the many tribal festivals, above all December's Hornbill Festival near Kohima.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Nagaland.

  • Cemetery

    Kohima War Cemetery

    The immaculately maintained war cemetery contains the graves of over 1400 British, Indian and other Allied soldiers, killed in or around Kohima in 1944 as they resisted a Japanese invasion of India from Burma in one of the fiercest battles of WWII. The cemetery is laid out on what were the terraced lawns of the British Deputy Commissioner's bungalow. Some of the most savage fighting took place across the tennis court near the top, where the white marker lines are still in place.

  • Market

    Central Market

    This small but fascinating market outside the Kohima Local Ground stadium, off Razhü Junction, is a compendium of exotic Naga tribal foods with such delicacies as mefi (wriggling hornet grubs), frogs, silkworms, snails, crabs in small bamboo baskets, dried fish, dog meat, exotic condiments such as dried and fermented bamboo shoots, fiery Raja (King) chillies and plenty of vegetables.

  • Architecture

    Naga Heritage Village

    The Naga Heritage Village, 10km south of Kohima along the Imphal road, has a representative selection of traditional Naga houses and morungs (young people's dormitories) with full-size log drums and architectural ornamentation specific to each of Nagaland's tribes. Nagaland’s biggest annual jamboree, the Hornbill Festival, is celebrated here.

  • Museum

    WWII Museum

    Located within Kisama Heritage Village, 10km south of Kohima, this well-kept museum exhibits war memorabilia from the WWII battles fought in and around Kohima. Displays include a diverse range of weaponry, table-top models of battlefields, soldiers' uniforms and historic photographs. You may have to ask around for the caretaker to open it up.

  • Museum

    State Museum

    This well-presented government museum, 2km north of Kohima’s centre, has galleries on two floors featuring tribal costumes, weapons, musical instruments, sports and jewellery. It's a good place to acquaint yourself with the diverse customs, cultures and crafts of the different Naga tribes – but a map of who's where would be helpful.

  • Ruins

    Rajbari Park

    Until it was sacked by the Ahoms in 1536, Dimapur was the capital of the prominent Dimasa Kachari kingdom of eastern Assam. Little grandeur is evident today, the chief relics being some curious, toadstool-shaped pillars (probably funerary monuments) in a former palace complex in Rajbari Park near the town market.