David Noton
West Iceland
Geographically close to Reykjavík, yet far, far away in sentiment, West Iceland (known as Vesturland) is a splendid microcosm of what Iceland has to offer. Yet many tourists have missed the memo, and you’re likely to have remote parts of this wonderful region to yourself.
The long arm of Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a favourite for its glacier, Snæfellsjökull, and the area around its national park is tops for birding, whale watching, lava-field hikes and horse riding. Inland beyond Reykholt you'll encounter lava tubes and remote highland glaciers, including enormous Langjökull with its unusual ice cave. Icelanders honour West Iceland for its local sagas: two of the best known, Laxdæla Saga and Egil’s Saga, took place along the region’s brooding waters, marked today by haunting cairns and an exceptional museum in lively Borgarnes. West Iceland offers everything from windswept beaches to historic villages and awe-inspiring terrain in one neat little package.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout West Iceland.
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Snæfellsjökull National Park
Snæfellsjökull National Park encompasses much of the western tip of Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and wraps around the rugged slopes of the glacier Snæfellsjökull, the icy fist at the end of the long Snæfellsnes arm. Around its flanks lie lava tubes, protected lava fields, which are home to native Icelandic fauna, and prime coastal bird- and whale-watching spots. The park is criss-crossed with hiking trails, and during proper weather it is possible to visit the glacier with a tour or guide. When the fog that swirls around the glacier lifts, you'll see the mammoth ice cap, which was made famous when Jules Verne used it as the setting for Journey to the Centre of the Earth. In his book, a German geologist and his nephew embark on an epic journey into the crater of Snæfells, guided by a 16th-century Icelandic text with the following advice: Descend into the crater of Yocul of Sneffels, which the shade of Scartaris caresses, before the kalends of July, audacious traveller, and you will reach the centre of the earth. I did it. Malarrif is home to the National Park Visitor Centre, and area tourist offices sell maps and give advice, too. The park's online map is also excellent. Rangers have an active summer program of free park guided tours; check online or by email.
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Settlement Centre
Housed in an imaginatively restored warehouse by the harbour, the must-see Settlement Centre offers fascinating insights into the history of Icelandic settlement and the Saga era. The museum is divided into two exhibitions; each takes about 30 minutes to visit. The Settlement Exhibition covers the discovery and settlement of Iceland. Egil's Saga Exhibition recounts the amazing adventures of Egil Skallagrímsson (the man behind Egil’s Saga) and his family. A detailed multilingual audio guide is included. This is not your run-of-the-mill Icelandic folk museum: the Settlement Centre offers deep background into Iceland’s history and flora and fauna, and a firm context in which to place your Icelandic visit; and Egil's Saga is one of the most nuanced and action-packed of the sagas. The centre has placed cairns throughout town marking key sites from Egil's Saga. It also has a top-notch restaurant.
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Djúpalón Beach
On the southwest coast, Rte 572 leads off Rte 574 to wild black-sand beach Djúpalónssandur. It’s a dramatic place to walk, with rock formations (an elf church, and a kerling – a troll woman), two brackish pools (for which the beach was named) and the rock-arch Gatklettur. Some of the black sands are covered in pieces of rusted metal from the English trawler Eding, which was shipwrecked here in 1948. An asphalt car park and public toilets allow tour-bus access, and crowds. Down on the beach you can still see four lifting stones where fishing-boat crews would test the strength of aspiring fishermen. The smallest stone is Amloði (Bungler) at 23kg, followed by Hálfdrættingur (Weak) at 54kg, Hálfsterkur (Half-Strong) at 100kg, and the largest, Fullsterker (Fully Strong), at 154kg. Hálfdrættingur marked the frontier of wimphood, and any man who couldn’t heft it was deemed unsuitable for a life at sea. A series of rocky sea stacks, some of which are thought to be a troll church, emerge from the ocean up the coast as you tramp north over the craggy headland to reach the black-sand beach at Dritvík. From the 16th to the 19th century Dritvík was the largest fishing station in Iceland, with up to 60 fishing boats, but now there are only ruins near the edge of the lava field.
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Snæfellsjökull
It’s easy to see why Jules Verne selected Snæfell for his adventure Journey to the Centre of the Earth: the peak was torn apart when the volcano beneath it exploded and then collapsed back into its own magma chamber, forming a huge caldera. Among certain New Age groups, Snæfellsjökull is considered one of the world’s great ‘power centres’. Today the crater is filled with the ice cap (highest point 1446m) and is a popular summer destination. The best way to reach the glacial summit is to take a tour with Summit Adventure Guides, Snæfellsjökull Glacier Tours or Go West!. These companies approach the peak from the south, on Rte F570; Rte F570’s northern approach (near Ólafsvík) is frustratingly rutty (4WD needed) and frequently closed due to weather-inflicted damage. Even the well trained and outfitted are not allowed to ascend the glacier without a local guide; contact the National Park Visitor Centre in Malarrif for more information.
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Into the Glacier
This enormous (300m-long) human-made tunnel and series of caves head into Langjökull glacier at 1260m above sea level. The glistening, LED-lit tunnel and caves opened in 2015 and contain exhibitions, a cafe and even a small chapel for those who want to tie the knot inside a glacier. Tours leave from Húsafell (shuttle adult/child 2000kr/free) or the glacier edge (tour adult/child 19,500kr/free) in summer if you have a 4WD. Tours also leave from Reykjavík (29,900kr), and there are many combo tours (snowmobiling, helicopter). A maximum of 80 visitors at a time can travel up the glacier by monster truck, then have about 45 minutes touring the glacier – which will continue to creep down the mountain in the years to come.
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Langjökull
The Langjökull ice cap is the second largest glacier in Iceland, and the closest major glacier to Reykjavík. It's accessed from the 4WD Kaldidalur or Kjölur tracks, and its closest access village in West Iceland is Húsafell. Do not attempt to drive up onto the glacier yourself. Tours depart from Reykjavík or Húsafell: the Into the Glacier ice cave is a major tourist attraction, Mountaineers of Iceland offers snowmobiling, and Dog Sledding sometimes has summertime dog-sledding tours.
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Norska Húsið
Stykkishólmur’s quaint maritime charm comes from the cluster of wooden warehouses, shops and homes around the town’s harbour. Most date back about 150 years. One of the most interesting (and oldest) is the Norska Húsið, now the regional museum. Built by trader and amateur astronomer Árni Thorlacius in 1832, the house has been skilfully restored and displays a wonderfully eclectic selection of local antiquities. On the 2nd floor you visit Árni’s home, an upper-class 19th-century residence decked out with his original wares. The museum also hosts occasional art exhibitions.
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Borg á Mýrum
The Borg á Mýrum farm, just northwest of Borgarnes on Rte 54, is the site where Skallagrímur Kveldúlfsson, Egil's father, made his farm at settlement. The farm is named for the large rock (borg) behind the farmstead (private property); you can walk up to the cairn for views all around. You can also visit the small cemetery, which includes an ancient gravestone marked by runes. The large abstract sculpture by Ásmundur Sveinsson represents a part of Egil's Saga, when Egil mourned the death of his sons and was rejuvenated by composing a poem.
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Kirkjufell
Kirkjufell (463m), guardian of Grundarfjörður’s northwestern vista, is said to be one of the most photographed spots in Iceland, appearing in Game of Thrones and on everyone's Instagram. Ask staff at the Saga Centre if you want to climb it; they may be able to find you a guide. Two spots involving a rope climb make it dangerous to scale when wet or without local knowledge. Kirkjufell is backed by the roaring waterfalls, Kirkjufellsfoss; more camera fodder.