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East Iceland

As far as you can get (some 650km) from Reykjavík, Iceland’s impressively varied and sparsely populated east (called Austurland) doesn’t announce itself as loudly as other parts of the country, preferring subtle charms over big-ticket attractions. The Eastfjords is the area’s most wondrous destination – the scenery is particularly spectacular around the northern fjord villages, backed by sheer-sided mountains etched with waterfalls. If the weather’s fine, several days spent hiking here may be some of your most memorable in Iceland.

Away from the convoluted coast, the country’s longest lake stretches southwest from Egilsstaðir, its shores lined with perfect diversions. Further inland are the forgotten farms, fells and reindeer-roamed heathlands of the empty east, and Snæfell, one of Iceland’s prime peaks.

Ring Road motorists often simply overnight in Egilsstaðir then speed out of the east. Lunacy! The east's spectacular fjords, scenic hiking trails, fascinating geology and friendly villages are some of Iceland's unsung treasures.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout East Iceland.

  • See

    Wilderness Center

    This brilliant attraction opened in 2016 and defies easy classification. It's a remote farm that offers museum exhibits, unique accommodation, local food, horse riding and hiking trails, and the opportunity for tailor-made tours, all year-round. It's 12km past Skriðuklaustur on Rte 934, at the end of Norðudalur valley, on the edge of the eastern highlands. The historic exhibits here were designed by the farm's owners (a filmmaker and historian) so are of superb quality – as is the entire farm concept. Accommodation is offered in simple farmhouse rooms with shared bathroom (double 18,600kr) or – more intriguingly – in a dormitory room styled as a baðstofa, the traditional living/sleeping room on old Icelandic farms (bed for two 14,100kr to 15,100kr). Food is available all day (mid-May to September). There are new hot-pots, and a glorious Northern Lights–viewing hut for winter. Guided tours range from three-hour horse rides (15,000kr) to exploration of an abandoned nearby farm (8500kr). You can rent a mountain bike, or join a super-Jeep tour. Multiday activities are also possible; see the website for information. If you're staying, give yourself a couple of nights here, and consider walking the Waterfall Trail, an easy six-hour riverside hike (one-way transfer possible) to Laugarfell.

  • See

    Steinasafn Petru

    The wondrous assemblage at Petra's Stone Collection was a lifelong labour of love for Petra Sveinsdóttir (1922–2012). Inside her house, stones and minerals are piled from floor to ceiling – 70% of them are from the local area. They include beautiful cubes of jasper, polished agate, purple amethyst, glowing creamy ‘ghost stone’, glittering quartz crystals…it’s like opening a treasure chest. The large garden is awash with more rocks, garden gnomes, and beachcombed flotsam and jetsam. Additional collections (including pens, matchboxes and taxidermy birds) show what an incredible hoarder Petra was. A small kiosk out front sells soup and coffee, daily from June to mid-September.

  • See

    Hengifoss

    Crossing the bridge across Lagarfljót on Rte 931, you’ll reach the parking area for lovely Hengifoss, Iceland’s second-highest waterfall. The falls plummet 128m into a photogenic brown-and-red-striped boulder-strewn gorge. Getting to Hengifoss requires a return walk of one to two hours (2.5km each way). From the car park, a staircase and path lead up the hillside – Hengifoss is soon visible in the distance. It’s a steep climb in places but flattens out as you enter the canyon. Halfway to Hengifoss is a noteworthy smaller waterfall, Litlanesfoss, surrounded by vertical basalt columns in a honeycomb formation.

  • See

    Rainbow Street

    This street is supremely photogenic: a rainbow is painted on the pavement, and the Blue Church serves as a sweet backdrop. It features in many advertising campaigns and is a popular tourist photo opp.

  • See

    Skriðuklaustur

    Skriðuklaustur is the site of both an excavated, late-15th-century monastery and the photogenic home of an Icelandic author feted by the Third Reich. The unusual black-and-white turf-roofed building was built in 1939 by Gunnar Gunnarsson (1889–1975), and now holds a cultural centre dedicated to him. This prolific writer achieved phenomenal popularity in Denmark and Germany – at the height of his fame only Goethe outsold him. The house also contains an interesting exhibition about the earlier Augustinian monastery, demolished during the Reformation of 1550. Archaeological finds include bones indicating that Skriðuklaustur was used as a hospice. The entrance fee includes guiding. On-site is a superb cafe.

  • See

    Tvisöngur

    A favourite walk takes explorers from a parking area south of Tækniminjasafn Austurlands about 15 or 20 minutes uphill to the 'sound sculpture' Tvísöngur, a concrete installation created by German artist Lukas Kühne. The piece comprises five interconnected domes of different sizes, and each is designed to resonate at a different harmony.

  • See

    Kárahnjúkar Dam

    A scenic 60km drive from the Rte 910 turn-off takes you to the Kárahnjúkar dam and Hálslón reservoir, where information boards and viewing areas allow you to appreciate this vast feat of engineering, as well as observe the incredible Hafrahvammagljúfur canyon, below the dam.

  • See

    Bláa Kirkjan

    The star of many a tourist photo, the Blue Church has a dramatic mountain backdrop to add to its highly photogenic exterior. It's often locked, but opens for weekly summer concerts.

  • See

    Aðalból

    Rte F923 (off Rte 910, for 4WDs only) leads you to the valley of Hrafnkelsdalur, full of sites relating to Hrafnkell’s Saga. The remote farm Aðalból was the home of the saga’s hero, Hrafnkell Freysgoði, and his burial mound is here. There’s a marked saga trail, threading together places mentioned in the story. There's a guesthouse and campground here. You can also access Aðalból from the Ring Road – it's 43km on unsealed Rte 923 (which becomes an F road south of the farm, where there is a river to ford).

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Spotlight on: East Iceland

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