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The Reykjanes Peninsula expands in drama as you move away from the highway between Reykjavík and Keflavík International Airport. You’ll find not only the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s most famous attraction, but numerous other gorgeous and interesting sights, many of them based around active volcanoes. The busiest towns are amenity-rich Keflavík and nearby Njarðvík, but the sweet, windswept fishing hamlets of Garður and Sandgerði – great for whale watching – are just minutes to the west of the airport on a small northwestern spur. The rest of the Reykjanes, from dramatic Reykjanestá in the southwest to the Reykjanesfólkvangur wilderness reserve in the east, is an untamed landscape of multihued volcanic craters, mineral lakes, bubbling hot springs, rugged mountains and coastal lava fields.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Reykjanes Peninsula.
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At the eastern end of Njarðvík's waterfront, the spectacular Víkingaheimar is a Norse exhibition centre built in one beautiful, sweeping architectural gesture. The centrepiece is the 23m-long Íslendingur, an exact reconstruction of the Viking Age Gokstad longship. It was built almost single-handedly by Gunnar Marel Eggertsson, who then sailed it from Iceland to New York in 2000 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of Leif the Lucky's journey to America.
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The volatile geothermal field Austurengjar, about 2km south of Kleifarvatn, is often called Krýsuvík after the nearby abandoned farm. At Seltún, the main sight, boardwalks meander round a cluster of seething hot springs. The mud pots and steaming sulphuric solfataras (volcanic vents) shimmer with rainbow colours from the minerals in the earth.
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This deep, brooding lake sits in a volcanic fissure, surrounded by wind-warped lava cliffs and black-sand shores. A walking trail runs around the edge, offering dramatic views and the crunch of volcanic cinders underfoot. Legend has it that a wormlike monster the size of a whale lurks below the surface – but the poor creature is running out of room, as the lake has been shrinking ever since two major earthquakes shook the area in 2000.
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Boardwalks allow visitors to get close to the eerie Gunnuhver site, which is filled with vigorously bubbling mud pools and billowing steam. Some observation areas get frighteningly close to the smoking geothermal activity – be careful in strong winds. The area was named after a female ghost named Guðrún Önundardóttir (or Gunna) who was, the story goes, lured and trapped here by a priest.
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These strangely shaped cliffs and hardened volcanic ash layers were formed in an eruption in the early 1900s. The formations are named tuffs, and consist of volcanic glass, which is the result of 1200°C magma cooling rapidly. Park at the base of the cliff and climb up for spectacular views of the coast and Eldley Island – it's some 15km off shore and a popular habitat for cliff dwelling birds like guillemots, gannets and kittiwakes.
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This scientific learning centre has a fascinating exhibit about Polar explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot, whose ship Pourquois Pas? wrecked near here in 1936 (all but one sailor perished). There are original artefacts from the wreck, and memorabilia. Other displays include stuffed and jarred Icelandic creatures (look out for the walrus) and a small aquarium.
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To the northeast of Keflavík's harbour sits the larger-than-life Giantess, a giant troll character from Herdís Egilsdóttir’s children’s books. A local art collective created the enormous figure, who sits in a rocking chair in her black cave. Take the walking path next to the boats on the left side of the harbour to find the cave.
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In a long red warehouse by the harbour, Duushús is Keflavík’s historic cultural centre. There’s a permanent exhibition of around 60 of Grímur Karlsson’s many hundreds of miniature ships, made over a lifetime, as well as Reykjanes Art Museum galleries with international art exhibitions, and a changing local-history display.
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This museum delves into the history of the awesome Icelandic music scene, from Björk to Sigur Rós and Of Monsters and Men. Admission includes a walking-guide app with music. There's also the Music Hall of Fame, instruments for you to jam on, a cafe, and a shop where you can stock up on local tunes.