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Messinia

The southwestern corner of the Peloponnese has many attractions, from the peninsula's loveliest beaches to old Venetian towns, impressive castles and even underwater parks for divers.

Messinia’s boundaries were established in 371 BC following the defeat of Sparta by the Thebans at the Battle of Leuctra. The defeat ended almost 350 years of Spartan domination of the Peloponnese – during which time Messinian exiles founded the city of Messina in Sicily – and meant the Messinians were left free to develop their kingdom in the region stretching west from the Taÿgetos Mountains. Their capital was Ancient Messini, about 25km northwest of Kalamata on the slopes of Mt Ithomi.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Messinia.

Archaeological Site
Ancient Messini
The remains of this vast ancient city are as extensive as those of Olympia and Epidavros, yet Ancient Messini receives only a fraction of their visitors. Picturesquely situated on a hillside below the village of Mavromati and still undergoing excavation, the site comprises a large theatre, an agora (marketplace), a sizeable Sanctuary of Asclepius and one of the most impressive Ancient Greek stadiums. Entry includes the small museum at the site turn-off; don't miss the impressive Arcadian Gate 800m beyond, either.
Archaeological Site
Nestor’s Palace
The best preserved of all Mycenaean palaces lies 17km north of Pylos and is a thrilling sight. It's described in Homer's 'Odyssey' as the court of the hero Nestor, who took part in the voyage of the Argonauts and sent 90 ships to fight in the Trojan War. Originally a two-storey building, the palace’s walls stand up to 1m high, and from the raised walkways and explanatory text you get a good idea of the layout of a Mycenaean palace complex.
Museum
Neo Kastro
The more intact and accessible of two castles that lie on either side of Navarino Bay, Neo Kastro was built by the Turks in 1573 on the hilltop at the southern edge of town. It affords excellent views. Within its formidable walls is a mosque converted into a church, plus the hexagonal acropolis, used as a prison until the 1900s. The complex now houses Pylos' impressive archaeological museum and interesting displays on underwater archaeology.
Fort
Kastro
This vast, crumbling kastro, a great example of 15th-century Venetian military architecture, is built on a promontory south of Methoni. It's surrounded on three sides by the sea and separated from the mainland by a dry moat. Enter the inner keep through the mighty gateway to discover a Turkish bath, a cathedral, a house, a cistern and underground passages. A short causeway leads from the fortress to the diminutive octagonal Bourtzi fortress on an adjacent islet.
Beach
Voidokilia Beach
This perfect sandy crescent with clear waters is presumed to be Homer’s ‘sandy Pylos’, where Telemachus was warmly welcomed when he came to ask wise old King Nestor the whereabouts of his long-lost father, Odysseus, King of Ithaca. Follow the signs to Paleokastro and walk the lagoon-side track labelled 'Nestor's Cave' from the Paleokastro car park (20 minutes) or approach by road from the village of Petrohori, 6km north of Gialova off the road to Chora.
Museum
Archaeological Museum of Messenia
This partially interactive, child-friendly museum focuses on treasures found in four regions – Kalamata, Pylia, Messini and Trifylia. Exhibits include everything from sculpture, pottery and funereal objects found in tholos tombs (Mycenaean tombs shaped like a beehive) at Nestor's Palace, to Roman mosaics, gold jewellery and votive offerings. It provides wonderful context to the surrounding areas.
Ruins
Paleokastro & Nestor's Cave
The ruins of this ancient castle, which the Franks built in the 13th century on the site of the acropolis of Ancient Pylos, lie 5km west of Gialova on rugged Koryphasion Hill, a formidable natural defensive position overlooking the northern entrance to Navarino Bay. The castle (officially closed) can be explored, but with care; avoid falling down cisterns hidden by overgrowth. The views from the top are magnificent. The road to the castle is signposted on the northern edge of Gialova.
Fort
Kastro
Looming over the town is the 13th-century kastro (fort). Remarkably, it survived the powerful 1986 earthquake that levelled the city. The entry gate is its most impressive feature. Inside, the kastro is a lush haven of tranquillity and there are excellent views over Kalamata and beyond from the battlements.
Archaeological Site
Arcadian Gate
It’s well worth heading 800m along the road from Mavromati village, past the museum to the celebrated Arcadian Gate. This unusual stone portal with a circular courtyard between the double gates and an immense, half-collapsed gatepost guarded the ancient route to Megalopoli – now a modern road – which runs through the gate. Flanking the gate is the finest surviving section of the mighty defensive wall built by Epaminondas. Through the gate are ornate columned tombs of notables: burials were not permitted within the city.