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Lasithi Province

Crete's easternmost region is home to the island's top resorts: Agios Nikolaos smoulders with cosmopolitan cool, while just around the bay, Elounda tiptoes between luxe and relaxed. Paradoxically, this is also the wildest region, with the richest biodiversity and the least trampled ranges; it’s so rugged in places that you half expect Pan to emerge, pipe in hand, from the meadows.

For the wanderer in search of adventure and gastro delights, Lasithi ticks all the boxes; cyclists head up to misty Lasithi Plateau, trekkers tackle dramatic canyons such as the famous Zakros Gorge, and foodies enjoy some of Crete’s finest tavernas and restaurants. Then there are attractions like the historic monastery of Toplou, Vaï’s beguiling palm-lined beach, and scores of towns and villages that maintain a rich undertow of Cretan history and spirit. And let's not forget Lasithi's rich ancient history, with Minoan and Dorian sites to explore in numerous places.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Lasithi Province.

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    Zakros Palace

    Ancient Zakros, the smallest of Crete’s four Minoan palatial complexes, sat next to a harbour and was likely engaged in sea trade with the Middle East, as suggested by excavated elephant tusks and oxhide ingots. Like Knossos, Phaestos and Malia, Zakros centred on a courtyard flanked by royal apartments, shrines, ceremonial halls, storerooms and workshops. While the ruins are sparse, the remote setting makes it an attractive site to nose around. Information panels help spur your imagination.

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    Spinalonga Island

    Tiny Spinalonga Island became a leper colony in 1903 and catapulted into pop-cultural consciousness thanks to Victoria Hislop's 2005 bestselling novel The Island and the subsequent Greek TV series spin-off To Nisi. Boats departing from Elounda, Plaka and Agios Nikolaos drop visitors at Dante's Gate, the 20m-long tunnel through which patients arrived. From here, a 1km trail takes you past such ‘sights’ (mostly ruined) as a church, the disinfection room, the hospital and the cemetery.

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    Chrissi Island

    Ierapetra is the launch pad for boat trips to uninhabited Chrissi Island (also known as Gaïdouronisi or Hrysi Island). It is famous for its golden beaches, clear water shimmering in myriad shades of blue, cedar forest, traces of Minoan ruins, and Belegrina, a beach covered with a mountain of shells. There are usually a couple of morning boat departures that give you 4½ hours on the island. Tickets are sold online and by agents around town. Bring a picnic or buy refreshments on board. One company that will take you there is Cretan Daily Cruises (28420 20008, www.cretandailycruises.com boat trip adult/child €25/12, mid-May–Oct) ); their vessels carry 200-400 passengers.

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    Ancient Lato

    The fortified hilltop city state of Lato is one of Crete’s best-preserved non-Minoan ancient sites and worth the trip for the rural serenity and stunning views down to the Bay of Mirabello alone. Founded by the Dorians in the 7th century BC, Lato reached its heyday in the 3rd century BC but was gradually abandoned. By the 2nd century AD its administrative centre had moved to its port in present-day Agios Nikolaos.

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    Moni Toplou

    In splendid isolation on a windswept plateau, 15th-century fortified Moni Toplou is one of the most historically significant monasteries in Crete. Its defences were tested by everyone from pirates to crusading knights to the Turks. The church brims with superb icons, although the main magnet is the intricate Lord Thou Art Great icon by celebrated Cretan artist Ioannis Kornaros. It depicts scenes from the Old and New Testaments, including Noah’s Ark, Jonah and the Whale, and Moses parting the Red Sea.

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    Dikteon Cave

    According to legend, Rhea hid in this cave to give birth to Zeus, far from the clutches of his offspring-gobbling father, Cronos. A slick and vertiginous staircase corkscrews into the damp dark, passing overhanging stalactites, ethereal formations and a lake. From Psyhro it's a steep 800m walk to the cave entrance, via a rocky but shaded natural trail or the sunny paved path starting near the car park.

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    Gournia

    The Late Minoan settlement of Gournia lies 19km southeast of Agios Nikolaos. Comprising a small palace and residential areas, it was built between 1600 and 1500 BC, destroyed in 1450 BC and reoccupied from 1375 to 1200 BC. There are streets, stairways and houses with walls up to 2m high. Domestic, trade and agricultural implements discovered here suggest that Gournia might have been fairly prosperous. Agios Nikolaos buses bound for Sitia and Ierapetra can drop you at the site.

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    Church of Panagia Kera

    This tiny triple-aisled church on the main road shelters Crete's best-preserved Byzantine frescoes. The oldest in the central nave (13th century) depict scenes surrounding the life of Christ, including the Ascension in the apse, the four Gospel scenes (Presentation, Baptism, Raising of Lazarus and Entry into Jerusalem) in the dome and a superb Last Supper. The south aisle is dedicated to St Anne, mother of Mary, with depictions including her marriage and Mary's birth. The north aisle focuses on St Anthony.

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    Sitia Archaeological Museum

    This is a compact showcase of archaeological finds from eastern Crete spanning the arc from Neolithic to Roman times, with an emphasis on Minoan artefacts. Pride of place goes to the Palekastro Kouros – a statue carved from hippopotamus tusks that was once fully covered in gold leaf. Standout finds from the palace at Zakros include a wine press, a bronze saw and cult objects scorched by the fire that destroyed the palace.