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The largest town in Kakheti, Telavi is set in the vineyard-strewn Alazani valley, between the Gombori Mountains and the Great Caucasus (visible to the northeast). It’s the perfect base for exploring the region's viticultural, historical and architectural riches, and has a number of good guesthouses, hotels and restaurants, as well as a fascinating castle and museum complex.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Telavi.
Castle
Batonistsikhe was the residence of the Kakhetian kings in the 17th and 18th centuries and remains today a superbly preserved old castle right in the middle of Telavi. The complex includes a renovated Persian-style palace where Erekle II was born and died, two small churches, the royal baths, and a state-of-the-art combined history and art museum. Enter from the western side of the fortress walls.
Market
Telavi’s busy market bursts with fresh produce from the area’s villages and is a chaotic visual feast to wander through.