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Dauphiné

Named for the dolphin (dauphin) that graced the coat of arms of its prior rulers, the historic region of Dauphiné encompasses the territories south and southwest of Savoie, stretching from the Rhône River in the west to the Italian border in the east. It roughly corresponds to the départements of Isère, Drôme and Hautes-Alpes.

Mountain-backed Grenoble is Dauphiné's cultural centre and largest city. Barely a few kilometres southwest extends Parc Naturel Régional du Vercors, scarred with gorges and caves. East of here is rugged, glacier-carved Parc National des Écrins, with whopping, world-class ski resorts Les Deux Alpes and Alpe d'Huez on its northern flank.

Standing sentinel over lesser-loved winter sports area Serre Chevalier is Briançon, an underrated fortress town connected to Italy by a hair-raising mountain road.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Dauphiné.

  • See

    Musée de Grenoble

    For lovers of European art, this museum is an uplifting place to get lost for a day. There's an even spread of artistic eras on display: an antiquities wing with statuettes from ancient Egypt and Greece, and mostly European art from medieval religious paintings to an impressive assembly of 20th-century luminaries like Bonnard, Ernst, Léger, Magritte, Miró, Modigliani and Soutine. Among the other highlights: superb 19th-century landscapes of the Dauphiné region; Spanish artist Zurbarán's Annuciation (1638–39); and the gorgeous, light-filled building itself, opened in 1994. Audioguides (€2) are available in French, English and Italian.

  • See

    Musée Archéologique

    This highly impressive museum unveils the secrets of a 12th-century church and cloister using light effects, a haunting choral soundtrack and an informative audioguide. Interactive, self-guided visits allow you to explore parts of the time-worn sanctuary at your own pace, from images projected on its lofty walls to 4th-century amphora burials in the basement. As well as French, audioguides are available in English, Spanish, Italian and German.

  • See

    Fort de la Bastille

    After a fun ride in the téléphérique, or a steep, hour-long climb, the reward is a magnificent mountain panorama from Grenoble's stocky fortress, built during the first half of the 19th century to strengthen the city against Alpine rival the Duchy of Savoy. On the viewing platform known as the Belvédère Vauban, panels (in French and English) indicate what you're looking at. On clear days you can see not only the peaks of the Vercors but also the snowy hump of Mont Blanc. The fort complex has its own tourist office, a couple of places to eat, and a number of walking trails, including the GR9, start or pass by.

  • See

    Musée Dauphinois

    This ever-evolving museum unleashes a century of regional history on visitors. Suits of armour are back-lit in brightly coloured rooms, 3-D family trees and highland traditions are reimagined as cutting-edge modern art. The museum, occupying a 17th-century convent, has permanent exhibitions on skiing and rural lifestyles, but installations constantly change. You're sure to find something interesting in this impressive collection. It's situated on the hillside below Fort de la Bastille, 300m up the hill from Pont St-Laurent over the River Isère.

  • See

    Musée des Troupes de Montagne

    Though the subject is niche, this museum exploring France's elite Alpine regiments, which date to 1888, is riveting. An audioguide (in French, English, German or Italian) enlivens displays of military gear, tales of WWII resistance, and brings you right up to present-day mountain troops.

  • See

    Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation de l’Isère

    This thoughtfully curated exhibition presents the history of Grenoble's vigorous resistance to Italian and then German forces during WWII, with plenty of translation into English and German. Mournfully lit, the permanent exhibition features emotive displays on the region's résistants (Resistance fighters) and the fates of the thousand local Jews – including 80 children – sent to Nazi camps. Rotating temporary exhibitions (French only) zoom in on various wartime themes.

  • See

    Musée de l’Ancien Évêché

    A run-through of regional history, from prehistory through medieval times to the 20th century, is presented within the atmospheric walls of the 13th-century Bishops’ Palace. The building, its walls built atop 3rd-century Roman foundations, is sometimes more interesting than its displays; a highlight is the vaulted chapel. Bonus: there are enjoyable views over the cathedral as you wander around. Some signage is in English.

  • See

    Le Magasin

    A cavernous glass-and-steel warehouse built by Gustave Eiffel has been turned into one of France's leading centres of contemporary art. Many of the cutting-edge temporary exhibitions were designed specifically for this space. It's situated about 2km west of the centre; to get there, take tram A to the Berriat–Le Magasin stop.

  • See

    Téléphérique Grenoble-Bastille

    Hop into a clear-panelled spherical pod for dreamy views of Grenoble's red roofs and magnificent mountains on this cable-car ride up to the Bastille. Les bulles ('the bubbles'), as they're known, have been floating along the 610m cable since 1934, making them the world's first urban cable car system for sightseers.