Mediterranean Coast

Alexandria’s ancient library was one of the greatest of all classical institutions, and while replacing it might seem a Herculean task, the new Bibliotheca Alexandrina manages this with aplomb. Opened in 2002, this impressive piece of modern architecture is a deliberate attempt to rekindle the brilliance of the original centre of learning and culture. The complex has become one of Egypt’s major cultural venues and a stage for numerous international performers, and is home to a collection of brilliant museums.

Founded in 331 BC by 25-year-old Alexander the Great, Alexandria (Al Iskendariyya) is the stuff of legend. Its towering Pharos lighthouse, marking the ancient harbour's entrance, was one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and its Great Library was considered the archive of ancient knowledge. Alas, fate dealt the city a spate of cruel blows. The Pharos collapsed and the Great Library was torched. Part of the ancient city disappeared under the sea and part under the modern city, so there are few visible remains of the glorious past.

The 19th century kick-started a cosmopolitan makeover and renaissance when Alexandria became one of the Mediterranean's key commercial hubs. This revival was cut short in the 1950s by President Nasser's nationalism. Today the imposing modern library of Alexandria sits amid faded remnants of the once-grand seafront Corniche, as a symbol of the city's latest incarnation as Egypt's cultural capital.

Aboukir (pronounced abu-eer) shot to fame in 1798 when the British admiral Horatio Nelson sank Napoleon’s French fleet in what became known as the Battle of the Nile. Just offshore from Abukir, underwater excavations have revealed the sunken city of legendary Herakleion-Thonis, which was swallowed by the Mediterranean about 1200 years ago.

The beach isn’t the cleanest, but local Alexandrians head here in summer for lunch at one of the excellent fish restaurants.

Rosetta (also called Ar Rashid) squats on the western branch of the Nile. It was founded in the 9th century, but its heyday was during the 18th and 19th centuries, when it became Egypt’s most significant port. British tourists flocked to the town in the 1800s to see charming Ottoman mansions and to stroll through the many citrus groves. Alas, as Alexandria got back on its feet and regained power in the mid-19th century, Rosetta was thrust into near-irrelevance.

Today its backwater appeal strikes a contrast with the modern hustle of nearby Alexandria. The citrus groves have mostly disappeared, but some restored mansions are open to visitors. The unpaved streets are packed with donkeys pulling overloaded carts, and the souq area has an atmosphere of centuries past, with basket-weavers artfully working fronds and blacksmiths hammering away in medieval-looking shopfronts.

This small coastal outpost is famed for the decisive victory won here by the Allies during WWII. More than 80,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in the series of desert battles fought nearby, which helped cement Allied control of North Africa. The thousands of graves in the Commonwealth, German and Italian war cemeteries in the vicinity of the town are a bleak reminder of the losses.

Much cheerier are the fine sands and heavenly water of the nearby beaches. Finding a place to access the sea is easier if you’re staying at one of the local resorts, but there are a few places where independent travellers can get in the water.

During summer, Marsa Matruh provides the real-deal Egyptian resort-town experience. From June to September it can seem like half of the Nile Valley has decamped here for their holidays. The brilliant white sandy beaches are squeezed full of families, and the dusty streets buzz with people well into the wee hours of the morning. Throngs of street stalls sell hot food and souvenirs, and impromptu street musicians bang out rhythmic tunes.

For the rest of the year, Marsa Matruh presses the snooze button and returns to its usual near-comatose state. The city's turquoise water bays lie empty and the only visitors are Bedouins and Siwans stocking up on goods.

Whatever the time of year, few foreign tourists make the trip out here, except to break the journey to Siwa.