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Southern Highlands

Emerging from the shadows of the breath-sapping peaks, glaciers and active volcanoes of the north, a gentler land reveals itself. Still mountainous, but also more benign, the southern spine of the Ecuadorian Andes ushers intrepid travelers down lush valleys that hide some treats: pastel-hued colonial towns and remote villages where indigenous cultures thrive.

Veering from chilly, elfin woodland to humid lowland forest, the region is home to a huge diversity of wildlife and landscapes; make time for a trip to at least one of the region’s national parks.

Most journeys begin in Cuenca, a classic South American traveler hub with one of the continent's best-preserved colonial centers. Then it’s a choose-your-own-adventure romp through seldom-visited ancient settlements and untrammeled wild areas toward vibrant, museum-rich Loja and balmy Vilcabamba. From here, forays begin into stark ocher hills, along verdant slopes where Ecuador's best coffee is cultivated and down into sticky semitropical forest.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Southern Highlands.

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Museo del Banco Central ‘Pumapungo’
One of Ecuador's most significant museums, Pumapungo houses great modern art downstairs, but the highlight is on the 2nd floor. Here begins a comprehensive voyage through Ecuador's diverse indigenous cultures, with colorfully animated dioramas and reconstructions of typical houses of Afro-Ecuadorians from Esmeraldas province, the cowboy-like montubios (coastal farmers) of the western lowlands, several rainforest groups and all major highland groups. The finale features rare and eerie tzantzas (shrunken heads) from the Shuar culture of the southern Oriente. The Shuar supposedly shrunk the heads of their enemies to harness their spirit for strength in future battles. Included in your visit is the Archaeological Park out back, where you can walk through the extensive ruins of buildings believed to be part of the old Incan city of Tomebamba. Unfortunately, the Spanish conquistadors carted off most of the stone to build Cuenca, so there’s not much left – but the park is good for a stroll, with perhaps a stop at the snack bar at the bottom.
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Puerta de la Ciudad
With perhaps more pomp and circumstance than you'll encounter anywhere else in Loja, the City Gate greets you into downtown from the northern corner. It's a giant castle with an arched doorway spanning Sucre, a street forging south (from the confluence of Ríos Zamora and Malacatus) towards the central plazas. Inside, the helpful staff, second-floor archaeological museum, cafe and several lookouts orchestrate an ideal intro to the city.
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Museo de la Música
This fun museum located in an old school explores the lives of famous musicians who hailed from Loja (most peaking in success during the golden 1890–1940 period). Many old instruments and scores of music are on display, and a shop here (often closed) sells music.
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El Sagrario
Standing across the park from the new cathedral, the whitewashed El Sagrario is also known as the 'old cathedral.' Construction began in 1557, the year Cuenca was founded, and in 1739 La Condamine’s expedition used its towers as a triangulation point to measure the shape of the earth. It's been deconsecrated and serves as a religious museum and recital hall. Wander out back to the courtyard for a look at some fascinating historical photographs of colonial Cuenca life.
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Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción
Also known as the ‘new cathedral,’ construction began on this vast cathedral only in 1885. Its giant domes of sky-blue Czech tile are visible from all over Cuenca, and if it looks like the bell towers are bit short, that’s because they are – a design error made the intended height of the belfries impossible for the building to support.
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Museo de las Culturas Aborígenes
This indigenous culture museum has more than 5000 archaeological pieces representing more than 20 pre-Columbian Ecuadorian cultures going back some 15,000 years. But what makes this such a gem of a museum is the informative self-guided tour – touching upon such unexpected items as combs, obsidian mirrors and cooking equipment, as well as explaining the striking designs. A peaceful courtyard cafe sells wickedly strong coffee.
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Lagunas de los Compadres
Branching off from the Los Miradores Loop Trail is the challenging but enticing 14.5km trail to the two dozen or more lakes that make up the remote Lagunas de los Compadres, through a gorgeous swathe of rugged Andean scenery. The route requires a minimum of three days’ round-trip for most hikers. There is no water between the trailhead and the lakes.
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Tapichalaca Reserve
The small Tapichalaca Reserve, 75km south of Vilcabamba, protects one of Ecuador’s most rare and endangered birds, the jocotoco antpitta (Grallaria ridgelyi), which has fewer than 20 known breeding pairs. Some of the birds have been habituated to eating grubs put out by the caretaker, however, so a sighting is likely. The rest of the reserve is an oasis of cloud forest in a region of heavy deforestation, and the hummingbird feeders are abuzz all day. To get there in time for the antpittas’ breakfast, catch the 5am bus from Loja or spend the night at the reserve’s beautiful lodge.
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Mirador de Turi
For a lovely view of Cuenca, take a taxi ($5) 4km south of town along Avenida Solano to the stark white Church of Turi. The views of Cuenca’s famous, romantic skyline are especially pretty at sunset and on November and December evenings, when the city fires up the Christmas lights. An alternative way to get here is via double-decker city tour bus ($8), departing every half-hour or so from the north side of Parque Calderón.