This 318m-high Petřín is one of Prague’s largest green spaces. It’s great for quiet, tree-shaded walks and fine views over the "city of a hundred spires" from the observation deck of a highly convincing Eiffel Tower wannabe. There were once vineyards here, and a quarry that provided the stone for most of Prague’s Romanesque and Gothic buildings.
Ride the Funicular Railway...
This tiny railway has been trundling up Petřín since 1891. The Petřín Funicular Railway (dpp.cz) now uses modern coaches that move back and forth on 510m of track, though it still numbers among the city's most popular attractions.
The ride is an easy way to add a little adventure to summiting the hill (and saves a hefty 20-minute climb). The funicular runs every 10 minutes (every 15 minutes November to March) from a base station at Újezd to near the Petřín Lookout Tower, with a stop in between at Nebozízek. Buy single, one-way fares at ticketing machines located at both the base and upper stations.
...Or Climb the Hill
The funicular is fun (especially for kids), but most Praguers opt for the slow, pretty climb along meandering trails and up through a changing landscape of orchards and tree cover. The walk is particularly lovely in April or early May to catch the first budding flowers on the trees. The ascent takes 20 minutes of moderate, occasionally breathy exertion. There’s no direct path to the summit; the best plan is simply to keep moving uphill.
Once at the Summit
Once on top, take a moment to appreciate the hill and summit. Just south of the upper funicular station, there's a tended rose garden with some 12,000 roses (and plenty of benches to relax on). While sitting here, ponder the fact that once upon a time this hill was draped with vineyards. It was also a major part of Prague's fortification system. Look down toward the city to see the long stone barrier, the Hunger Wall, that cuts along the middle of Petřín. The wall was constructed in 1362 under Emperor Charles IV to protect Prague from invasion; the name comes from the fact that it was built by the city's poor in return for food.
Not far from the rose garden, the small Štefánik Observatory (planetum.cz) has stood here since the 1920s. Check the website for scheduled public viewings of the daytime and nighttime skies, as well as a permanent exhibition on astronomy.
Lookout Tower & Mirror Maze
Walk north of the funicular's upper station to find the Petřín Lookout Tower, a 60m-high Eiffel Tower lookalike (though much smaller at a ratio of 1:5) built by members of the Czech Hikers Club in 1891 for the Prague Jubilee. The resemblance to the Eiffel Tower is intentional. The club's members were apparently wowed by the Paris tower and wanted to put one here too. Climb the tower's 299 steps (or take the lift) for some of the best views in the city – on clear days you can see all the way to the forests of Central Bohemia to the southwest.
Just near the lookout tower is a Mirror Maze that was also built for the 1891 exposition. Younger children will get a kick out of the distorting funhouse mirrors and labyrinth. There's also a diorama of the 1648 battle between Praguers and Swedes on Charles Bridge, though few of the kids take any notice of this.
"Lovers’ Day"
Petřín comes into its own on 1 May when Prague residents celebrate an informal "Lovers' Day." Tradition says young couples must meet and kiss at the statue of Karel Hynek Mácha (1810–36), a famous Czech writer whose poem Máj explores the tragedy of unfulfilled love. The space is undeniably romantic and couples kiss here all the time (no need to wait until 1 May).