Shaanxi

The Terracotta Army isn't just Xi'an's premier sight: it's one of the most famous archaeological finds in the world. This subterranean life-size army of thousands has silently stood guard over the soul of China's first unifier for more than two millennia. Either Qin Shi Huang was terrified of the vanquished spirits awaiting him in the afterlife or, as most archaeologists believe, he expected his rule to continue in death as it had in life.

Once the terminus of the Silk Road and a melting pot of cultures and religions, as well as home to emperors, courtesans, poets, monks, merchants and warriors, the glory days of Xi'an (西安, Xī’ān; pronounced 'see-an') may have ended in the early 10th century, but a considerable amount of ancient Chang’an, the former city, survives behind the often roaring, modern city. Xi'an’s Ming-era city walls remain intact, vendors of all descriptions still crowd the narrow lanes of the warren-like Muslim Quarter, and there are enough places of interest to keep even the most amateur historian riveted.

Most people only spend two or three days in Xi'an; dynastic enthusiasts could easily stay busy for a week. Must-sees include the Army of Terracotta Warriors, the Tomb of Emperor Jingdi, Xi'an City Walls and the Muslim Quarter, but try to set aside time for its pagodas and museums, plus a side trip to nearby Hua Shan.

One of Taoism’s five sacred mountains, the granite domes of Hua Shan (华山, Huá Shān) used to be home to hermits, sages and Taoist mystics (some of whom could fly, they say). These days, though, the trails that wind their way up to the five peaks are populated by droves of day-trippers drawn by the dreamy scenery. And it is spectacular. There are knife-blade ridges and twisted pine trees poking from crevices and clinging to ledges, while the summits offer transcendent panoramas of green mountains and countryside stretching away to the horizon. Taoists hoping to find a quiet spot to contemplate the dào (道) may be disappointed, but everyone else seems to revel in the tough climb and those who overnight can bask in the first warming glow of sunrise.

Hancheng (韩城, Hánchéng) is best known for being the hometown of Sima Qian (145–90 BC), China’s legendary historian and author of the Shiji (史记; Records of the Grand Historian). Sima Qian chronicled different aspects of life in the Han dynasty and set about arranging the country’s already distant past in its proper (Confucian) order. He was eventually castrated and imprisoned by Emperor Wudi, after having defended an unsuccessful general.

For its historical textures and ambience, Hancheng is a great side trip from Xi'an. Built upon a hill, the new town (新城; xīnchéng) located at the top is dusty and unremarkable and is where you’ll find hotels, banks and transport. But the more atmospheric old town (古城; gǔchéng) at the bottom of the hill boasts a handful of historic sights. The unique Ming-dynasty village of Dangjiacun is 9km further east.

This tomb, also referred to as the Han Jing Mausoleum, Liu Qi Mausoleum and Yangling Mausoleum, is the burial place of the Han-dynasty emperor Jingdi (188–141 BC) and is quite possibly Xi'an’s most underrated highlight. If you only have time for two sights outside Xi'an, make it the Army of Terracotta Warriors and this impressive museum and tomb. Unlike the warriors, though, it's not inundated with visitors so you'll have elbow room to fully appreciate what you’re seeing.