Northern Patagonia

Verdant and pristine, this 2889-sq-km park encompasses vast extensions of temperate rainforest, clear rivers and seascapes. A remarkable forest-conservation effort stretching from near Hornopirén to south of Chaitén, Parque Nacional Pumalín was originally created by American philantropist Doug Tompkins. It was one of the largest private parks in the world prior to its donation to Chile in 2017. For Chile it's a model park, with well-maintained roads and trails, extensive infrastructure and minimal impact.

Ranking among the world's ultimate road trips, the Carretera Austral runs 1240km alongside ancient forests, glaciers, pioneer farmsteads, turquoise rivers and the crashing Pacific. Completed in 1996, it required an initial investment of US$300 million, took more than 20 years to build and cost 11 workers their lives. Pinochet's quest to cut a road through Aisén was not based on common sense or a pragmatic plan, it arguably had more to do with the symbolism of a highway that united forgotten outposts with national identity.

Highway is a glorified name – the southern half of the route is unpaved and can be in poor condition. Yet travelers are drawn here in part because the route is not lined with Shell stations and Starbucks. Don't skimp on planning and a good dose of prudence. Top off your tank whenever you see a gas station as the next may be far or running low. If you like your food green, bring fresh produce – the local selection can be severely lacking.

To the north of the Carretera Austral, ferry service is inadequate for the amount of traffic and only runs regularly during summer. Especially in winter, rock slides are common and landslides may close sections of the road for days. In the south, the road sits barely 1m above the flood-prone Río Baker, the mightiest Chilean river.

Beware the 'company trucks,' usually white pickups that charge at full speed, their drivers always anxious to finish a day's work. Also watch out for cyclists and motorcyclists for whom the Carretera Austral has become a popular challenge and true badge of courage.

Lastly, isolation makes this region expensive. Be prepared for costs 20% above the rest of Chile. Go prepared:

• Get your vehicle checked out prior to departure.
• When possible, reserve ferry crossings in advance.
• Organize your cash (few towns have ATMs, and BancoEstado takes only MasterCard).
• Drive during the day, as there are no streetlights and curves are not marked with reflectors.
• Carry extra food, water and even gas, as a breakdown or empty tank can leave you marooned.
• Always carry a neumático (spare tire) and make sure the vehicle has una gata (a car jack) and jumper cables.
• Take your time and enjoy the scenery – high-speed turns on loose gravel roads are a recipe for disaster.
• Stop if someone looks like they might need help.
• Give trucks a wider berth on gravel – broken windshields are endemic to the Carretera Austral.

If crossing into Argentina, start your trip with all papers in order, permission to take a rental vehicle out of the country and the required insurance. Extra fuel, meat, produce and dairy products can't cross borders.

When winds roar sidelong and rains persist, take refuge by the wood stove, drink a round of mate (tea) and echar la talla (pass the time) with the locals. Rural Patagonia offers a rare and privileged glimpse of a fading way of life. To jump-start their slack rural economy, government and nonprofit initiatives have created local guide and homestay associations.

These family enterprises range from comfortable roadside hospedajes and farmstays to wild-country multiday treks and horseback-riding trips through wonderland terrain. Prices are reasonable – starting from CH$18,000 per day for lodging and CH$20,000 per day for guide services. Pack horses or riding are extra and only Spanish is spoken.

Travelers can link with rural homestays and guide services through Casa del Turismo Rural in Coyhaique. In Palena, contact Rincón de la Nieve for an outstanding remote farm experience, reached only by hiking or horse riding, or Auquinco for boating the turquoise Palena River. It's best to book a week or more in advance, as intermediaries have to make radio contact with the most remote hosts. That's right – no phones, no electricity, no worries.

The 'Futa' or 'Fu,' as it's known, is a technical, demanding river, with some sections only appropriate for experienced rafters. Depending on the outfitter you choose and the services included, rafting the Futaleufú starts at CH$50,000 per person for a half-day section known as Bridge to Bridge, with Class IV and IV-plus rapids. A full-day trip for experienced rafters only goes from Bridge to Macul, adding two Class V rapids, starting at CH$60,000.

Ideal for families, there's rafting on the Class III Río Espolón. Novice kayakers can try this river or head to Lago Espolón for a float trip.

A network of creaky boardwalks tracing the milky waters of the glacier-fed sound, Caleta Tortel feels like a place from long-ago fables. There are no roads. Dedicated as a national monument, this fishing village cobbled around a steep escarpment is certainly unique. Seated between two ice fields at the mouth of Río Baker, it was first home to canoe-traveling Alacalufe people (Qawashqar); colonists didn't arrive until 1955. Still isolated but more outwardly social than other Patagonians, locals live off tourism and cypress-wood extraction.

Dependence on a small turbine means that the town has water shortages in big droughts. Electricity is rationed and available for only several hours in the morning and evening. Use water sparingly.

Turquoise lakes and the rusted hues of the steppe mark the rarely visited Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni, 52km southwest of Chile Chico. Its unusual wonders range from cave paintings to foxes and flamingos. In the transition zone to the Patagonian steppe, it covers 1610 sq km. Hiking options are excellent. Through-hikers can link to Valle Chacabuco via a three-day mountain traverse; for details ask at Parque Nacional Patagonia.

En route to the reserve, about 25km south of Chile Chico, an access road leads to Cueva de las Manos, Tehuelche cave paintings less impressive than their Argentine counterpart of the same name. Reaching the cave requires a steep uphill climb (unmarked) best done with a guide.

A village of shingled houses on the windy western shores of Lago General Carrera, Puerto Río Tranquilo is a humble pit stop facing a whopping growth spurt. Once just a fuel stop, its growing outdoor opportunities have put it on the map. It's the closest access point to the cool marble caves of Capilla de Mármol. More recently it's become the launch point for more budget-minded tours to the stunning Glaciar San Rafael.