Norte Chico

The heart of Chilean pisco production, the Elqui Valley is carpeted with a broad cover of striated green. Famous for its futuristic observatories, seekers of cosmic energies, frequent UFO sightings, poet Gabriela Mistral and quaint villages, this is a truly enchanting – and enchanted – area, and one of the must-visit places in Norte Chico.

A short distance south of Caldera is the sweet little seaside resort of Bahía Inglesa. With rocky outcrops scudding out of the crystal waters, this is the place to come for a spot of beachside fun. It has become one of the north's most popular vacation spots, with a trendy vibe and a long white-sand beach. Most tourist businesses are on or around the beachfront Av El Morro, including the Domo Bahia Inglesa hotel, at the south end, which many locals use as a point of reference

Bahía Inglesa takes its name from the British pirates who took refuge here in the 17th century; there are legends of their treasure still being hidden somewhere in these parts.

An abundance of white sandy beaches, sheltered coves and stony headlands line the desert coastline 30km north of Chañaral. Chañaral itself is a cheerless mining and fishing port set among the rugged headlands of the Sierra de las Animas and offers little appeal to the traveler; it's best used only as the gateway for the park.

It's the wildlife that brings most international travelers to Pan de Azúcar, which straddles the border between Regiónes II and III. That's because the cool Humboldt Current supports a variety of marine life. Star of the show is the endangered Humboldt penguin, which nests on an offshore island. Here you'll also spot slippery marine otters and rowdy sea lions, as well as scores of pelicans and cormorants.

The 437-sq-km park's altitude ranges from sea level to 900m. There are great coastal campsites, which get busy in summer.

Chile's second-oldest city and the thriving capital of Región IV, La Serena is doubly blessed with some beautiful architecture and a long golden shoreline, making it a kind of thinking-person's beach resort. The city absorbs hoards of Chilean holidaymakers in January and February, though it is fairly peaceful outside the summer rush. Sauntering through downtown La Serena reveals dignified stone churches, tree-shaded avenues and some pretty plazas. Some of the city's architecture is from the colonial era, but most is actually neocolonial – the product of Serena-born president Gabriel González Videla's 'Plan Serena' of the late 1940s.

La Serena also has numerous attractions in the surrounding countryside, with pretty villages and pisco vineyards aplenty, as well as international astronomical observatories that take advantage of the region's exceptional atmospheric conditions and clear skies.

It requires effort to get here, but the rewards are tremendous. This remote national park is home to soaring peaks, glittering alpine lakes and abundant wildlife. Vicuñas, guanacos, giant and horned coots, Andean geese and gulls; and on occasion the rare condor gliding overhead.

This aquatic reserve, encompassing some 888 hectares and several islands is home to some 68 species of land vertebrates, including sea lions, with bottle-nosed dolphins and the occasional whale (humpback and sperm whales among others) spotted in its frothy seas. The biggest draw, however, is the Humboldt penguin, for which the reserve is named. The best place to spot these waddling creatures (but magnificent swimmers) is on rocky Isla Choros.

If you tire of getting herded around in the large observatories, you may like these small, personalized astronomical tours (in English or Spanish). Held in the on-site amphitheater, tours start with a short video exploring the basics of astronomy, followed by a listen to interstellar sounds via radio telescopes; you'll then get up close with the celestial bodies via scientific-grade telescopes.

The spirit of Gabriela Mistral's somnambulist poetry seeps from every pore of snoozy little Vicuña. Just 62km east of La Serena, this is the easiest base from which to delve deeper into the Elqui Valley. The town itself, with its low-key plaza, lyrical air and compact dwellings, is worth a visit for a day or two before you head out into the countryside to indulge in the nearby solar kitchens (where the sun cooks the food), and the fresh avocados, papayas and other fruits grown in the region – not to mention the famous grapes that are distilled into Chile's potent grape-brandy pisco.