São Paulo

Copan was designed by late modernist master Oscar Niemeyer. The building, with its serpentine facade and narrow brises soleil (permanent sunshades), is Sampa's most symbolic structure. You can visit its snaking, sloping ground-floor shopping arcade anytime; its spectacular rooftop opens only on weekdays at 10:30am or 3:30pm, however. The 15-minute visit is no frills – there's barely a railing! – and feels wonderfully unrushed. Checkin at Bloco F (space limited – arrive at least 30 minutes in advance).

This covered market is a belle epoque confection of stained glass and a series of vast domes. Inside, a fabulous urban market specializes in all things edible. It’s also a great place to sample a couple of classic Sampa delights: mortadella (Italian sausage) sandwiches at Bar do Mané or Hocca Bar, and pasteis (fried, stuffed pastries).

Sampa’s pride, this museum possesses Latin America’s most comprehensive collection of Western art. Hovering above a concrete plaza that turns into an antiques fair on Sunday (and acts as a protest gathering point almost always!), the museum, designed by architect Lina Bo Bardi and completed in 1968, is considered a classic of modernism by many and an abomination by a vocal few.

São Paulo’s dining scene is one of the best in the southern hemisphere. Famous fawned-over chefs such as Alex Atala from D.O.M., Helena Rizzo of Maní and Ivan Ralston from Tuju have given contemporary Brazilian cuisine a world stage. Must-eats around town include regional standouts (especially comida Nordestino; Northeastern cuisine) and an incredible bounty of ethnic eats such as Japanese, Middle Eastern (many Syrian refugees have opened restaurants) and Italian.

Among the city’s oldest and most important churches, São Bento dates to 1598, though its neo-Gothic facade dates only to the early 20th century. Step inside the church to view its impressive stained glass. Mass (7am weekdays, 6am on Saturday and 10am Sunday) includes Gregorian chanting.

Liberdade – a short walk south of Praça da Sé – has long been the traditional center of Sampa's massive Japanese community. Though most new Asian immigrants these days come from China and Korea, the gritty neighborhood is still lined with traditional Japanese shops and eateries, and is full of hidden gems of Asian culture.

Praça da Liberdade is the neighborhood’s main square and also the location of its metro stop. It hosts an open-air market on Sunday. A short walk south on Galvão Bueno takes you past many Asian shops and restaurants as well as some rather neglected Japanese-style gardens.

Traditional bar neighborhoods include boteco-filled Vila Madalena (mainstream); along Rua Mario Ferraz in Itaim Bibi (rich, bold and beautiful); and Baixo Augusta, where the GLS scene (Portuguese slang for Gay, Lesbian and Sympathetics) mingles with artsy hipsters in the city's edgiest-nightlife district. Artists, journalists and upper middle-class bohemians have claimed Pinheiros, immediately southeast of Vila Madalena. Current rage: rooftop bars!

This elegant neoclassical museum, formerly known as Pinacoteca do Estado but modernly rebranded 'Pina_Luz' (with the underline!) in 2017, houses an excellent collection of Brazilian – and especially Paulista – art from the 19th century to the present. Works include big names such as Portinari and Di Cavalcanti, and it has an excellent permanent collection of modernist Brazilian art. There is a lovely cafe that faces adjacent Parque da Luz.

São Paulo's most expansive green space and a much-loved urban oasis for Paulistanos, Parque Ibirapuera is a leafy 2 sq-km park in Vila Mariana. In addition to being an obvious focal point for recreation, fitness and picnics, it's also a thriving cultural hub that's home to several worthwhile museums and architecturally significant buildings. The park also hosts São Paulo's world class arts fair, Bienal de São Paulo. To get to the park, take the metro to Vila Mariana station and then bus 775-A ‘Jardim Aldagiza.’