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Paraná

Since its 1853 secession from São Paulo state, Paraná has been endlessly compared with its larger neighbor to the north. Indeed, the two share a slew of superlatives, rating among Brazil’s highest standards of living and best-educated populations.

With its efficient public transportation, innovative architecture and outstanding urban parks, the capital, Curitiba, exemplifies the state’s successes. Sunbathers and surfers sigh for Ilha do Mel and Parque Nacional do Superagüi, where large swaths of unspoiled rainforest and pristine coastline make for some of the least developed and most idyllic beaches in southern Brazil.

But it's Iguaçu Falls that has always earned the wonder and admiration of travelers, from indigenous tribes to Jesuit missionaries to modern-day tourists. The awe it inspires cannot be overstated.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Paraná.

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Itaipu Binacional
With a capacity of 14 million kilowatts, this binational dam is the world's second-largest hydroelectric power station, and the one that produces the most electricity per year. The impressive structure, at some 8km long and 200m high, is a memorable sight, especially when the river is high and a vast torrent of overflow water cascades down the spillway. The visitors center is 12km north of Foz. From here, regular tours ( visita panorâmica) depart every 20 minutes between 8:30am to 4:45pm. The more detailed option ( circuito especial; minimum age 14), which takes you into the power plant itself, leaves eight times daily Sunday to Thursday, and 12 times daily on Friday and Saturday. A variety of other attractions within the complex include a museum, wildlife park and river beaches, and a sunset catamaran tour. The project was controversial: it plunged Brazil way into debt and necessitated the large-scale destruction of rainforest and the displacement of 10,000 people. But it cleanly supplies 75% of Paraguay’s energy needs, and 17% of Brazil’s. To get to the Itaipu Dam, catch bus 101 (Vila C Norte-Sohab) or 102 (Vila C Sul-Profilurb), among others (R$3.45, 30 minutes), which leave every 20 to 30 minutes from Foz do Iguaçu's Urban Bus Terminal (TTU).
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Museu Oscar Niemeyer
Designed by and named for the architect responsible for much of Brasília, this striking museum features an iconic eye-shaped tower painted with whimsical dancing figures in shadowy black. Rotating exhibits highlight Brazilian and international artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Permanent exhibitions include a photographic time capsule of the museum's construction (housed in the tower) and an excellent presentation on Niemeyer himself, the highlight of the space. There's a nice shop for those into Niemeyer's signature style. Bus 505 from Passeio Público stops right at the museum.
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Parque das Aves
This 5-hectare bird park, located 300m from the entrance to Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, is home to 800-plus species of birds, including red ibis, bare-throated bellbird, and flamingos galore. They live in 8m-high aviaries that are constructed right in the forest, some of which you can walk through. Kids and adults freak out alike. Well worth it. Enthusiasts can go deeper here with Guarani forest (R$250) and behind-the-scenes (R$200) experiences.
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Feira do Largo
On Sundays, Largo do Ordem and Praça Garibaldi host a lively art and artisan market with more than 1000 stalls.
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Largo da Ordem
Curitiba's colonial heart. Here, the pedestrian-only cobblestone streets are lined with beautifully restored buildings, many of which now house trendy art galleries, pubs and cafes. On Sunday, it fills up along with adjacent Praça Garibaldi for a lively art and artisan market with more than 1000 stalls.
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Paço da Liberdade
Curitiba's historic Old City Hall was inaugurated in 1926 and designed by then-mayor Cândido Ferreira de Abreu, who was responsible for many of the city's prettiest buildings. Today, it houses a SESC (Social Service of Commerce) cultural center with small exhibitions and a chic cafe.
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Jardim Botânico
In the far south of the city, the Jardim Botânico is a vast, flower-filled expanse, studded with sculpture and crisscrossed by walking paths. The centerpiece glass and metallic greenhouse is more interesting as a decorative showpiece than as a botanical wonder.
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Palácio Belvedere
Built in 1923, this modest art nouveau construction was originally designed to be a city lookout. It was left to die and gutted by fie in 2017, but the pretty pale-blue 'palace' was undergoing restoration at time of writing.
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Teatro Guaíra
This premier state-run theater in Curitiba is home to the Paraná Symphony Orchestra (Orquestra Sinfônica do Paraná), and also hosts other dance and performing arts companies.