If you even have just one day in Rio de Janeiro, make sure you make time to hike, climb or cable-car up to Urca's mountains: Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) and Morro da Urca (Urca Hill). The views from here prove why Rio is called the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City). Stay for sunset to see live samba and DJs.
The Bondinho
Soar over Rio up to Sugarloaf and Urca Hill in the bondinho (aerial cable car). Named after the city's existing bonde (street cars), like the one in Santa Teresa, the bondinho was inaugurated in 1912 as the third aerial cableway in the world. Its first voyage carried 17 passengers to the top of Morro da Urca in around six minutes. A few months later, the 750m section between Urca Hill and Sugarloaf was completed.
Today’s bondinhos carry 65 passengers to the top in just three minutes and have resplendent views. Cars arrive at the station at Parque Bondinho Pão de Açúcar about every 20 minutes and cost between R$92 and R$185, depending on if you're a foreigner, local, student or senior.
The trip is fun in itself and includes a second leg up to 396m-tall Sugarloaf from the eastern edge of Urca Hill. There are always crowds, but it’s still worth the visit.
Hike
Alternatively, hike up to Morro de Urca for free. Find the trailhead for Trilha do Morro da Urca along Pista Cláudio Coutinho – it's about 300m from Praia Vermelha. The trail is a steep climb for 20 or 30 minutes past lush forest and plenty of capuchin monkeys (resist the urge to touch or feed them). Once you're up, you'll still have to take the cable car to get to Sugarloaf, but Urca Hill is good enough in our opinion.
Climb & via Ferrata
While hiking up Morro da Urca is simple enough, getting up to Pão de Açúcar without the cable car requires a guide and rock-climbing equipment. The iconic mountain has been pegged with more than 120 rock-climbing routes. Around for a quarter century, Climb in Rio (climbinrio.com) offers several options for accessing them, ranging from a mostly hiking trip for beginners with a 25m climb to the famous Via dos Italianos on the west face of the mountain for 5.9+/5.10 climbers. The certified instructors at Climb in Rio also offer guided climbs in and around the city, with proceeds supporting the nonprofit CEU, which provides free climbing instruction for underprivileged youth.
Another option is to climb up Sugarloaf via its lone via-ferrata route. Originally installed to rescue climbers in an emergency, the via ferrata doesn't have footholds – just rope – so prepare for a full-body workout. The climb is plenty of fun and you get awesome views the whole way. Thomas Arias of EcotuRio (ecoturio.com, R$350) is a qualified, English-speaking guide who can take you up (and take plenty of pics).
Samba
Every Sunday, catch live samba for sunset on Urca Hill from 3pm to 6pm. There are increasingly also live DJs on weekends and through Carnaval season.
Alternatively, book a romantic trip for Sunrise at Parque Bondinho. The R$550 experience takes you up in the cable car at 5am before it opens and includes breakfast at Clássico Sunset Club (8am-7:30pm $$$).
