Heading to Ipanema Beach is a daily ritual for residents of this coastal enclave, and an entire industry runs in turn. Beach vendors, quiosque (kiosk) owners and equipment renters all make a living from the sun worshipers, while rigorously trained lifeguards keep watch over the scene, often enacting multiple rescues per day. It's a place where you'll find every social class and walk of life.
A Quick Breakdown
Rio's beaches are a world unto themselves, and knowing where to go will help you find your tribe. Ipanema's beach runs from Posto 7 in Arpoador to Posto 12 in Leblon, lined with barracas (stands) – where you rent beach chairs, umbrellas and buy ice-cold drinks – conveniently numbered so you can more easily find your friends among the crowds.
Finding the Best Spot for You
Each zone attracts a different type of beachgoer – here's a quick breakdown:
Posto 9 The best-known spot in Ipanema is Posto 9 – the place to go to see and be seen. Here, you're likely to find young celebrities and their entourages stretched out on the sand next to models and influencers having informal photo shoots on blue beach chairs. The scene is young, the vibe is carnal and there are great drinks and even some decent food to be found to keep you going – try the sausage sandwich from the Barraca do Uruguai (Anthony Bourdain ate here).
Posto 7 Arpoador's Posto 7 has two claims to fame: 1) It's the heart and soul of the carioca surf scene, where everything from surf lessons to local surf competitions take place; and 2) it's the place where crowds gather at the end of the afternoon to get ready for another spectacular sunset. Besides having these two popularity claims, it's also frequently a cradle of funk culture, thanks to its location close to the metro and the nearby Cantagalo and Pavão e Pavonzinho favelas. The late afternoons in the summer can get rowdy, crowded and quite loud (watch your belongings).
Posto 8
Posto 8 is typically a tourist spot, due to its location in front of the Fasano hotel, and if you continue up a bit towards Farme de Amoedo street, you'll quickly enter into rainbow-flag territory.
Posto 10 & Posto 11
On both sides of the canal that separates Ipanema from Leblon you'll find some of the quietest areas of sand on the strip. Posts 10 and 11 are marked by beach tennis and beach-volleyball courts, sand dunes and book lovers. These zones are also favorite spots for families or those looking for some peace and quiet away from the crowds.
Vendedores Ambulantes
The beach isn't just a beach – it's a lively, moving street market, where vendedores ambulantes (itinerant salespeople) are hawking anything you might need to make your day more comfortable. You can purchase cangas (used instead of towels), bikinis, hats, sunglasses, sunscreen, tanning oil, beach toys and all manner of food and drink. Local favorites include Mate Leão, the carioca equivalent of ice tea that's mixed with lemonade or passion-fruit juice; and Biscoito Globo, a tapioca-based cracker that's a Rio de Janeiro icon.
Bombeiros
The numbered Postos are actually lifeguard towers, and they are where to go if you need a (paid) bathroom or free first aid. The bombeiros (lifeguards) are also the emergency responders on the sand, whether you have lost a child or have a health emergency. Rio's lifeguards pass through extremely intensive training and are considered to be some of the best in the world.
Beach Etiquette
You'll likely be elbow to elbow with your closest neighbor, especially on weekends in the summer, so be careful of your belongings. Don't hesitate to ask a friendly face to watch your bag so you can pop in the water for a mergulho (a dip) to help beat the heat. It's common courtesy to do the same for your neighbors – a task that takes more vigilance as the crowds roll in.
