Pará

Forest

If you came to the Amazon to see primary rainforest, look no further than the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós. Wildlife is a possibility – from birds to primates and even the (very) occasional jaguar – but it's the sense of deep forest and some of the largest trees anywhere that are the real drawcards here. Access is from either Santarém or Alter do Chão.

Lake

The floodplains east and southeast of Santarém are among the Amazon's most rewarding excursions. Flooded for much of the year, the plains are home to fabulous birdlife (including toucans and macaws), pink dolphins, howler monkeys, sloths and anacondas. The sunrise and sunset views are pure magic and there's a real sense of tranquility out here. Take an overnight boat trip, go canoeing through the flooded forest and relax far from the tourist hordes. Gil Serique organizes especially enjoyable excursions here.

Market

The name of this waterfront market, with its iconic four-turreted structure at its southwestern end, comes from colonial times, when the Portuguese would ver o peso (check the weight) of merchandise in order to impose taxes. The display of fruit, animals, medicinal plants and more is fascinating; go early to see fishing boats unloading their catch.

Market

An ambitious renovation project converted three down-at-heel riverfront warehouses into a popular gathering spot, with restaurants, bars, shops and even an art-house theater. There are river views and displays about Belém's history, plus a post office and numerous ATMs. Enjoy live music most nights, performed from a moving platform in the rafters, rolling slowly the length of the dining area.

Historic Site

Henry Ford briefly moved his Fordlândia operations to this tidy little town in the 1940s and this site, 40km from Santarém, makes for an easy day trip. There's a small museum of Ford-era photos and artifacts, a small grove of rubber trees and several green-and-white buildings, built for Ford managers; behind one (the Secretária de Educação) is a cement platform with river views. There's a water tower, with a still-working industrial whistle that used to summon the workers.

National Park

This large (9940 sq km) Amazonian rain-forest national park lies west of the town of Itaituba (population 65,000), which is 250km southwest of Santarém. To visit, you must obtain prior permission from the IBAMA office and an IBAMA staff member must accompany you on your visit. It is possible to stay at rudimentary facilities at an IBAMA post inside the park, but there’s no real visitor infrastructure here. Alternatively, ask at Mãe Natureza, Areia Branca Ecotour or Gil Serique both in Alter de Chão, about arranging a trip there.

Church

Rather humdrum from the outside, the Basílica Santuario de Nazaré has a truly spectacular interior. Sink into a cushioned pew and admire the soaring marble columns, brilliant stained-glass windows and ornate wood and tile work in every direction, even the ceiling. The basilica is the focal point of Brazil’s largest religious festival, Círio de Nazaré, which draws more than a million worshippers to Belém on the second Sunday in October.

Beach

Praia de Araruna is a narrow, virtually deserted beach with mangrove stands and separated from Praia Barra Velha by a wide tidal channel. High tide can reduce the shoreline significantly, but it's a pleasant spot and easy to reach by foot, bike or taxi. To get there, follow Travessa 14 east of town for about 4.5km to a fork in the road; to the left is a footbridge across the channel to Praia de Araruna.

Beach

A small slice of paradise just offshore from Alter do Chão, the 'Island of Love' is especially striking when the water is low (August to December) and beach restaurants and cool, calm water make it a great place to chill out. In high water, the island is much smaller but still worth a visit. When the water is low, you can wade from the waterfront to Ilha do Amor. Otherwise, rowboats will take you across for R$5 per person.