The ultimate weekend in Cusco

At 3400m above sea level, Cusco all but demands that visitors slow down to acclimate to the altitude. The reward? Unique flavors of traditional dishes and fusion cuisine to be savored; the raw beauty of undulating cobblestone streets and evident layers of history; and museums and workshops housed beneath terra-cotta rooftops.

For the past six years I’ve lived in the Sacred Valley, a 90-minute bus ride from Cusco. A few times a year I’ll make my way south to the former capital of the Inca empire for a weekend getaway. In between visiting classic cultural spots and archaeological sites, I can always count on a new specialty cafe or design-oriented shop to check out.

Even though many travelers see Cusco as the gateway to Machu Picchu, the city is a destination in its own right, and this 3-day itinerary will leave you wanting more than a weekend.

• When to arrive: Arrive early Thursday morning and leave Saturday night – you’ll get a taste of the nightlife without the Sunday crowds.

• How to get from the airport: Use a rideshare app or an authorized taxi waiting in the parking lot of the airport; it is about a 20-minute drive to the center.

• Getting around town: Nearly all of the top sites are in the historic center and walkable. If you are feeling some altitude sickness, take a taxi.

• Where to stay: If you don’t mind shared rooms or are traveling in a group, Casa Tunki (US$17) is a cozy hostel with a great on-site restaurant. Either location of the Niños Hotel (from US$40) is ideal for solo travelers or couples looking to keep their personal space. Antigua Casona San Blas has rustic yet chic rooms from US$290.

• What to pack: You'll want a sun hat, comfortable walking shoes, a refillable water bottle and layers. Cusco, especially between November and March, can go from sunny to rainy in the blink of an eye.

Day 1

Morning

After dropping off your bags at your hotel, fuel up on Andean grains at Cercanía, a family-owned sourdough bakery.

A short walk away is Qorikancha, the most important Inca temple. Meaning “Golden Enclosure” in Quechua, this temple dedicated to the sun deity, Inti, is where I bring guests first, as a guided tour will add vital context to their Cusco experience. Qorikancha was all but destroyed when Spaniards built the Santo Domingo Convent atop it, yet you can still admire original Inca walls. The combination of exquisite ashlar masonry beneath colonial constructions will follow you throughout the city.

How to spend the day

Stroll to the Plaza de Armas, Cusco's main square. Despite being a popular thoroughfare, the square benefits from the absence of high-rise buildings and feels expansive beneath Cusco's blue skies. Catch your breath (it’s your first day in the high-altitude city after all) on a bench and enjoy the views of the surrounding hillsides.

Recharge with a pour-over from Florencia y Fortunata, a women-led specialty coffee shop, and visit the neighboring cultural center, Augusta Espacio. Move on to the stunningly curated Museo de Arte Precolombino, facing the tranquil Plaza Nazarenas. I never tire of observing these artifacts (some dating back 3000 years) that paved the way for the Inca empire and continue to inspire contemporary artists in Peru.

Dinner

Make it a late lunch or early dinner at Organika. Sourcing from its organic farm in the Sacred Valley, the cozy restaurant specializes in veggie-based dishes, but meat eaters can find plenty of options too. Order the sweet potato ravioli and salad with smoked trout, topped off with muña tea (derived from the Andean mint plant).

After dark

Book a stargazing experience at the Planetarium Cusco. Even if there is a bit of cloud cover, you can still see an engaging projection beneath the dome and you’ll learn about the sacred Cruz del Sur (Southern Cross) and the Inca concept of dark constellations.

Day 2

Morning

After living in Peru for well over a decade, I firmly believe that a visit to a town's market is one of the best ways to get a feel for day-to-day life. Start the day with a fresh juice and simple pan con palta (bread with avocado) at Cusco's oldest market, Mercado San Pedro. Optional: rub elbows with the local crowd in the back food stalls, and slurp down a steaming bowl of caldo de gallina (chicken soup) for breakfast.

The less orderly streets surrounding the market can be even more eye-opening. Follow the swarms of shoppers and street food vendors along Cascaparo and Tres Cruces for a taste.

How to spend the day

Make your way to San Blas, an artisan quarter since the Inca era. You can easily linger in this endlessly charming barrio all day, dipping into tiny cafes or even booking an appointment at the women-led Casa Siete tattoo parlor for the ultimate souvenir.

Along the narrow cobblestone streets are great retail finds, like the unisex pieces at Hilo and sustainably made alpaca sweaters at HJK. Feel as if you’re in the Amazon with a cacao with turmeric from Xapiri Underground.

Don’t forget to gaze out over the red-roofed city from the San Blas lookout.

Dinner

Pachapapa is a trusted spot for trying cuy (roasted guinea pig), served with a side of Cusco's large-kerneled corn and bread fresh from the wood-fire oven. Call ahead to order as the dish takes an hour to prepare. Pair it with a glass of Peru’s classic purple corn drink, chicha morada.

After dark

Cap off the night with a Moscow mule (made with a Peruvian vodka) at stylish Casa Ichu. The housemade sodas and kombuchas are refreshing nonalcoholic options in this plant-filled oasis.

Day 3

Morning

Put your creativity to the test with a weaving workshop at Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco (3.5 hours). This nonprofit organization empowers weaving communities throughout the region by revaluing the rich textile traditions, and it's a privilege to learn directly from the women.

How to spend the day

Feast your eyes on the incredible stone fortress Sacsaywamán during a guided tour. To be present in this sacred site built of mammoth rocks (some weighing over 100 tons) is a humbling experience. Take time to laze in the grass afterward, contemplating the puma-shaped outline of Cusco.

Walk back down to the Plaza de Armas, passing picturesque streets like Calle Siete Borreguitos and crossing the colonial aqueduct, Sapantiana.

Dinner

After a day in the midst of ancient ingenuity, hit one of Cusco's best contemporary culinary outlets. The rotating menu of small dishes and cocktails at Oculto keeps me coming back. Try the alpaca tartare, grilled cauliflower and gyozas stuffed with Andean fungi. Signature cocktails like the gin-based Camucha, infused with the Amazonian fruit camu camu, show off Peruvian flavors.

After dark

Say goodbye to Cusco with one last stroll through the Plaza de Armas, where the glow of the cathedral is backed by a starry sky – reminding you of just how much you have yet to explore in this historic capital of the Inca empire.