It's hard to find two more beautiful cities in the USA than Savannah, Georgia, and Charleston, South Carolina.
The proximity – roughly two hours apart by car – and similar historic character of these popular Southern gems have led to many comparisons, but if you've only got limited time, how do you choose which one to visit? In a friendly spirit of competition, we asked two travel writers to make the case for the place they love the most. Let's see how the two cities stack up.
Sorry Savannah, Charleston is holier than thou
A native of Fredericksburg, Virginia, and resident of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, Jesse Scott has visited Charleston dozens of times through the decades. He has written extensively on the city as well as the state of South Carolina for Lonely Planet.
Charleston has been a regular family destination for this East Coast lifer since I was a time, and now, at 38 years old, my wife and I return, often with friends in tow, at every possible moment. Sure, the origins of its "Holy City" moniker are ingrained in its steeple-loaded skyline, but more than 350 years into its existence, it is true heaven on every cultural level.
In a nod to Savannah's baseball team, picking the Georgia city over Charleston would be, well, bananas. Fun fact: Charleston's RiverDogs are co-owned by native/icon/general man of awesomeness, Bill Murray, who is the team's – wait for it – Director of Fun. Building on Murray's title, Charleston is fuuuuuuuuuun (nine more Us worthy than Savannah). It's a true college town done right: townies and tourists mesh beautifully with the population of College of Charleston for a nonstop, Southern-charmed buzz. The never-ending landscape of rooftop bars, a mix of historic and contemporary inns, cobblestone streets, palmettos and posh boutiques only complete the vibe. It's best on display during the SEWE wildlife festival where, among other things, the DockDogs Competition involves adorable sporting dogs jumping and flying through the air as far as they can, before splashing down into pools below.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, Savannah is loaded with visible history. But understand that Charleston is a city of so many firsts and bests, which make it that much more special. At Fort Sumter looming off its coast were the first shots of the Civil War. On the site of the Country Club of Charleston, the country's first golf club was born. It's a blast to stroll and bike over the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, which is the longest cable-stayed bridge in the country.
And, somehow, someway, we have made it this far without addressing Charleston's OMG-worthy culinary scene. Holy City is widely regarded as "the food capital of the South." This is the birthplace of sherry-dashed, cream-alicious she-crab soup as well as Planters Punch, a rum-loaded, pineapple-y concoction that always turns a frown upside down. Georgia may claim to be the Peach State, but, ahem, South Carolina is actually a bigger producer. Be it downing a peach bellini (or three) at Carmella's Café and Dessert Bar or a bourbon-doused peach cobbler at Poogan's Porch, it's always a peach (literally).
The diversity of Charleston's foodie scene is truly striking. On the snag-and-go gamut, the oft-long queue at Callie's Hot Little Biscuit on King St for a hot, handmade morsel is always worth it. When it comes to elaborate dining, spots like Honeysuckle Rose are serving up Michelin star-worthy, eight-course tasting menus with wine pairings on the ground level of a cozy house on the city's westside. And, while we're at it, the fact that Charleston doesn't have a Michelin Guide of its own by this point is a borderline atrocity.
Beyond all of its multisensory bliss, it truly is the people of Charleston that are the glue of a trip to the city. You're sure to get a little twang, history, charm and personality in any interaction you pursue. The modern Charleston is diverse, has a creative edge and is infectious to locals and visitors alike – Southern city perfection.
Savannah has the artsy edge on Charleston
Caroline Eubanks is a travel writer from Atlanta, Georgia, and the author of This Is My South: The Essential Travel Guide to the Southern States. She may have lived in Charleston for a time, but Savannah is her preferred getaway.
Despite living in Charleston in my twenties, these days, I prefer the artsy neighborhoods, vintage shopping and funky cocktail bars of the Hostess City. My first visit was many years ago, and even though I still find something new to do each trip, every time I go, I make sure to sip and snack through the Forsyth Park Farmers Market and eat as much fresh seafood as possible on Tybee Island.
While both Charleston and Savannah are coastal locales, they have plenty of differences that set them apart. Savannah is more laid-back. Charleston's King St is now filled with national chain shops, but Savannah's Broughton St is still mostly local. You can pick up crystals from Mystic Apothecary before creating a custom scent at the Story Fragrance Library. Wander the Paris Market and find something special from Levy Jewelers, which has been locally owned since 1900.
Charleston has a well-earned reputation for its culinary scene, but Savannah has equally incredible restaurants. James Beard award-winning chef Mashama Bailey's the Grey is just one of them, located in the city's former Greyhound bus depot. Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room has earned the America's Classics title, and Elizabeth on 37th was recognized for its outstanding service. There are many more that haven't been honored with the big awards but deserve praise, like my favorites, Crystal Beer Parlor, Sea Wolf and the Black Rabbit.
Savannah also pays homage to its heritage, specifically the history of the Gullah-Geechee communities that have inhabited the Sea Islands for generations. The Pin Point Heritage Museum is set in the former warehouse of a local shrimp and oyster company and features exhibits on the language, foodways and history of Gullah-Geechee people.
The city has a long-running connection to the arts and is home to the Savannah College of Art and Design, one of the nation's leading arts institutions. The college has its own excellent museum and the two-building Telfair Museums, with its famous Bird Girl statue from the cover of the bestselling book set in Savannah, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.
The neighborhoods are its best asset, where you can visit the cool local spots. The historic district is obviously the most popular as it includes the big-name museums and restaurants, plus the open container district on River St, something that Charleston doesn't have. Colorful Starland District has a record shop, pinball arcade, a Texas-themed bar, and Starland Yard, an open-air food hall made up of converted shipping containers. In the Victorian District, you can watch glass blowers in action, eat at Betty Bombers, a diner inside an American Legion, and admire the city's most beautiful homes.
I also love that you can spend a weekend in Savannah without breaking the bank, something I can no longer do in Charleston. Most hotels there start at $200, but Savannah has the stylish but inexpensive motel vibes at the Thunderbird Inn and the scenic campground at Skidaway Island State Park. Staying in Midtown, on Tybee Island, and across the harbor can also save cash.
Like Charleston, Savannah is typically explored on foot, but the city has a well-connected bus system, including two routes that loop around the historic district and a ferry to Hutchinson Island. If you're traveling by car, you'll have to pay attention to the one-way streets, but I can usually find street parking and am not spending a fortune on a parking deck, something I can't say in Charleston.
I still hold Charleston close to my heart, but when it comes to the city that best suits my personality, these days, it's got to be Savannah.
