©Buenaventuramariano/Getty Images
Patagonia’s cavorting right whales, penguin colonies and traditional Welsh settlements are all accessed by Argentina’s coastal RN 3. While this paved road takes in some fascinating maritime history, it also travels long yawning stretches of landscape that blur the horizon like a never-ending blank slate. It’s also a favored travel route for oversized trucks on long-haul trips.
Wildlife enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the world-renowned Península Valdés, the continent’s largest Magellanic penguin colonies at Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo, and Reserva Natural Ría Deseado’s diverse seabird population. The quiet villages of Puerto San Julián and Camarones make for quiet seaside retreats, while Gaiman tells the story of Welsh settlement through a lazy afternoon of tea and cakes.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Coastal Patagonia.
Museum
Showcasing the most important fossil finds in Patagonia, this natural-history museum offers outstanding life-size dinosaur exhibits and more than 1700 fossil remains of plant and marine life. Nature sounds and a video complement the informative plaques, and tours are available in a number of languages. The collection's most exciting addition is the Patagotitan, possibly the largest animal to ever walk the earth, discovered in 2013.
Museum
Celebrating the area’s unique marine ecosystem, this masterpiece brings an artistic sensitivity to extensive scientific research. There are exhibits on the breeding habits of right whales, dolphin sounds and southern-elephant-seal harems, a touch-friendly tide pool and more. The building includes a three-story tower and library, with the top featuring glass walls and comfy couches for reading.
Wildlife Reserve
Lying on Argentina's barren eastern Patagonian coast, this oddly shaped peninsula is home to some of the country's richest wildlife. Elephant seals, Magellanic penguins, southern right whales, guanacos, armadillos and foxes are almost guaranteed sightings during their high seasons. Whale watching is also big. From February to April, orcas can be seen at high tide. They have been filmed snatching pinnipeds (the genus including seals and sea lions) off the beach here. Elephant seals, sea lions and dolphins are present year-round.
Wildlife Reserve
Continental South America’s largest penguin nesting ground, Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo has a colony of more than half a million Magellanic penguins and attracts many other birds, most notably king and rock cormorants, giant petrels, kelp gulls, flightless steamer ducks and black oystercatchers. A strict management plan requires rangers to accompany visitors on rookery visits.
Wildlife Reserve
At the far end of Península Valdés, solitary Punta Norte boasts an enormous mixed colony of sea lions and elephant seals. Its remote location means it is rarely visited by tour groups. But the real thrill here is the sight of orcas: from mid-February through mid-April these killer whales come to feast on the unsuspecting colonies of sea lions. Chances are you won’t see a high-tide attack, but watching the dorsal fins carving through the water is enough to raise goose bumps.
Museum
This museum provides an insider look at the social and historical aspects of petroleum development. Don’t expect balanced treatment of oil issues – it was built by the former state oil agency YPF (and is now managed by the Universidad Nacional de Patagonia). While its historical photos are interesting, the detailed models of tankers, refineries and the entire zone of exploitation are best left to die-hards. Guided tours are available.
Wildlife Reserve
A rough 30km southeast of Camarones, the isolated rookery Cabo Dos Bahías attracts far fewer visitors than Punta Tombo, making it an excellent alternative. You’ll be rewarded with orcas, a huge colony of nesting penguins in spring and summer, whales in winter and a large concentration of guanacos and rheas. Seabirds, sea lions, foxes and fur seals are year-round residents.
Cultural Center
This cultural center, 22km beyond the entrance of Reserva Faunística Península Valdés, focuses on natural history, displays a full right-whale skeleton and has material on the peninsula’s colonization, from the area’s first Spanish settlement at Fuerte San José to later mineral exploration. Don’t miss the stunning panoramic view from the observation tower.
Beach
The region’s principal playground, Playa Unión is a long stretch of white-sand beach with blocks of summer homes and restaurants serving crisp, fresh rabas (calamari). The capital attraction are toninas overas (Commerson’s dolphins) from April to December.