At the heart of the tiny village of Llanwnda, 2 miles northwest of Goodwick, 8th-century St Gwyndaf's showcases its antiquity in the carved stones, inscribed with crosses and Celtic designs, set into the outside walls. Inside, look up at the timber roof beams; at the far end of the third beam from the west (door) end, facing the altar, is a 15th-century carving of a tonsured monk's head.
While you're here, check out the neighbouring cottage, a higgledy-piggledy hippy shack covered in recycled objects, slogans and solar panels. Head inside and help yourself to a tea or coffee; donations are welcome.
A mile-long track leads from Llanwnda to Carregwastad Point, the site of the infamous 1797 invasion.