Pete Seaward
South Pembrokeshire boasts some of Wales' best sandy beaches and most spectacular limestone formations and makes an impressive starting point for the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (PCP).
Once known as Little England Beyond Wales, it was divided from the north by the Landsker Line – a physical and then a linguistic barrier roughly following the old Norman frontier. The divide is less pronounced now, but there's a noticeable English feel to places like Tenby, especially in summer, when the masses descend with their buckets and spades, building miniature replicas of the castles their ancestors once used to keep the Welsh at bay. Those sturdy fortifications are still visible in Tenby, Manorbier, Carew and Haverfordwest, reaching their apotheosis at Pembroke Castle.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout South Pembrokeshire.
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Regularly voted one of Britain's most beautiful beaches, Barafundle Bay is a scenic 10-minute walk south along the coast path from Stackpole Quay (turn right). It is a gorgeous spot but its reputation has put paid to seclusion, so on summer weekends it can get pretty crowded despite the lack of road access. Come out of high season and you may just have the whole place to yourself, though.
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This spectacular and forbidding castle was the home of the earls of Pembroke for over 300 years and the birthplace of Henry VII, the first Tudor king. A fort was established here in 1093 by Arnulph de Montgomery, but most of the present buildings date from the 13th century. It's a great place for both kids and adults to explore – wall walks and passages run from tower to tower, and there are vivid exhibitions detailing the castle's history.
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Looming romantically over the River Carew, its gaping windows reflected in the glassy water, this craggy castle is an impressive sight. The rambling limestone ruins range from functional 12th-century fortifications to Elizabethan country house, and there are plenty of towers, wall walks and dank basements to explore. A summer program of events includes archery, falconry, battle re-enactments and open-air theatre. Also in summer, a combined ticket can be purchased, which allows admission to the castle's Tidal Mill.
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Connected to Tenby by a seasonal boat service, Caldey Island is home to grey seals, sea birds and a red-topped, whitewashed monastery that houses a community of around a dozen Cistercian monks. Make sure you visit sandy Priory Bay, the lighthouse, the village museum, the old priory and St Illtyd's Church, with its oddly shaped steeple. Inside is a stone with inscriptions in Ogham (an ancient Celtic script).
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One of the most dramatic sights on this extraordinary stretch of coast is this 13th-century chapel, wedged into a slot in the cliffs, just out of reach of the sea. Steps hacked into the rock lead down through the empty shell of the structure and on to the rocks below, where there's a particularly picturesque rock arch, perpetually pounded by the waves.
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Housed in a wonderfully atmospheric restored bonded-stores building, this volunteer-staffed and passionately well-maintained museum celebrates the rich history of Narberth and the surrounding area. You can learn about medieval siege warfare and Narberth Castle through models and interactive games; walk historic streets and visit the shops; or listen to Welsh folk stories in the story-telling chair.
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Wild and windblown, this 2-mile strand of golden sand and silver shingle backed by acres of dunes is Wales' best surf beach, sitting wide open to the Atlantic rollers. But beware – although it's great for surfing, big waves, powerful rips and quicksand make it dangerous for swimming. Lifeguards patrol the beach from mid-June to August; swim only between the flags.
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Criss-crossed by a network of footpaths and wooden bridges, these famous ponds are a wonderfully tranquil spot for a stroll. The lilies bloom in June and July but the surrounding woodlands are full of wildlife year-round. The ponds are home to otters, herons and more than 20 species of dragonfly, while the ruins of the manor house are inhabited by the greater horseshoe bat.
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If your toddler's tolerance for castles and churches is waning, this combination zoo, petting farm, fun fair and amusement park could be the antidote. Once they've tired of the pirate ship, dragon playground and ride-on diggers, there's a large menagerie to explore, including farm animals, meerkats, monkeys, giraffes, zebras and an excellent penguin enclosure. Folly Farm is on the A478, 3 miles north of Saundersfoot.