Matt Munro

Powys

Small villages, quiet market towns and an abundance of sheep litter the undulating hills and moorland of rural Powys, by far Wales' biggest county. Named after an ancient Welsh kingdom, this modern entity was formed in 1974 from the historic counties of Montgomeryshire, Radnorshire and Brecknockshire. It's an overwhelmingly rural place, ideal for walking and cycling, but this county isn't just green in a literal sense – Machynlleth has become a focal point for the nation's environmentally friendly aspirations, and all over the county efforts to restore the threatened red kite have been met with outstanding success. The bird is now the very symbol of Powys, the county at Wales' green heart.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Powys.

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Centre for Alternative Technology
A small but dedicated band of enthusiasts have spent 40 years practising sustainability at the thought-provoking CAT, set in the Dyfi Unesco Biosphere Reserve, north of Machynlleth. Founded in 1974 (well ahead of its time), the CAT is an education and visitor centre that demonstrates practical solutions for sustainability. There are 3 hectares of displays dealing with topics such as composting, organic gardening, environmentally friendly construction, renewable energy sources and sewage treatment and recycling.
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Powis Castle
Surrounded by magnificent gardens, the redbrick Powis Castle was originally constructed in the 13th century by Gruffydd ap Gwenwynwyn, prince of Powys, and subsequently enriched by generations of the Herbert and Clive families. The castle's highlight, the Clive Museum, houses exquisite treasures brought back from India and the Far East by Clive of India (British conqueror of Bengal at the Battle of Plassey in 1757) and his son Edward, who married the daughter of the first earl of Powys.
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Gregynog Hall
While Gregynog Hall has been here in some form for 800 years, its current mock-Tudor manifestation – notable as one of the first uses of concrete in modern construction – dates to 1840. It's now the 300-hectare Grade 1–listed garden, dating to at least the 16th century, that's the major attraction. Walking tracks trace avenues of sculpted yews, banks of rhododendrons and azaleas, 300-year-old oaks and bird-filled beech woodlands. Admission to the grounds is unrestricted; parking costs £2.50.
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St Nicholas' Church
Evocative Norman St Nicholas' Church dates from 1226 and boasts a vaulted ceiling decorated with intricate coloured bosses, a beautifully carved pre-Reformation rood screen and striking mid-19th-century stained-glass windows. Look out for the elaborate canopied tomb of local landowner Sir Richard Herbert and his wife Magdalen, parents of Elizabethan poet George Herbert.
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Oriel Davies Gallery
One of Wales' leading contemporary spaces hosting often edgy national and international exhibitions, Oriel Davies is the largest visual-arts venue in the region and offers a range of talks, courses and workshops. Its sunny, glassed-in cafe (open 10am to 4pm) is popular, vegetarian-friendly and the best place for a light meal, such as homemade soup, quiche or baked potatoes.
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MOMA Machynlleth
Housed partly in the Tabernacle, a former Wesleyan chapel, the Museum of Modern Art exhibits work by contemporary Welsh artists in a permanent collection supplemented by ever-changing temporary exhibitions. The chapel itself has the feel of a courtroom, but the acoustics are superb – it's used for concerts, theatre and August's annual celebration of international music, the Machynlleth Festival.
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Robert Owen Museum
Housed in Newtown's Edwardian library and council chambers, this sober museum is the best place to bone up on Robert Owen's legacy. The son of a saddler who became a successful cotton-mill owner, Owen introduced radical reforms including a 10- to 12-hour workday, a minimum working age of 10 and schools for his employees' children. Combining plenty of text with artefacts and pictures, the exhibits are rich in detail. The museum's front desk also serves as Newtown's tourist information point.
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National Cycle Museum
Housed in the art nouveau Automobile Palace, the National Cycle Museum comprises more than 250 bikes. The exhibits show the progression from clunky boneshakers and towering penny-farthings to bamboo bikes from the 1890s and the vertiginous 'Eiffel Tower' of 1899 (used to display billboards), as well as slicker, modern-day versions.
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Owain Glyndŵr Centre
Housed in a rare example of a late-medieval Welsh town house, the Owain Glyndŵr Centre houses an exhibition telling the story of the Welsh hero's fight for independence and starring the Pennal letter, written by Glyndŵr in pursuit of an alliance with the French. Although it's called the Old Parliament Building, it was probably built around 1460, some 50 years after Glyndŵr instituted his parliament on this site, but it's believed to closely resemble the former venue.