Harlem & Upper Manhattan

Harlem was settled by Dutch farmers in the 17th century, and was later home to Irish, Italian and Jewish immigrants, but its identity is inextricably connected to the African American experience. These days, despite gentrification, it remains packed with fervent preachers and choirs, soul-food eateries and swinging jazz clubs. Franco-African and French-expat-owned restaurants add to the mix. Working-class East Harlem (known as Spanish Harlem or El Barrio) is a hub for Latino immigrants, while Columbia University borders West Harlem. To the north, leafy Inwood is home to medieval treasures.

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Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Harlem & Upper Manhattan.