Napa Valley
Napa Valley is exactly what you expect when you think of Wine Country: hillside chateau wineries, bold cabernets, vast expanses of perfectly ordered grape vines, grassy slopes speckled by the tungsten sun, restaurant dinners that go on for hours, and some of the finest and most luxurious small-scale boutique hotels anywhere in California.
Beyond the typical, Napa has some great hiking in the hillsides, exhilarating mud baths up north in the more working-class town of Calistoga, and plenty of small shops, wineries and classy bistros in the tony village settings of St Helena and Yountville.
Most journeys here start and end in the city of Napa proper. In the town center there are tasting rooms, live jazz and plenty of fine-dining options, plus the option to party late into the night at down-home pubs and eateries that draw a young local crowd.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Napa Valley.
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di Rosa
West of downtown, scrap-metal sculptures dot Carneros vineyards at the 217-acre di Rosa Art and Nature Preserve, a stunning collection of Northern California art, displayed indoors in galleries and outdoors in gardens by a giant lake. Reservations recommended for tours.
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Oxbow Public Market
Showcasing all things culinary (produce stalls, kitchen shops and everywhere something to taste), Oxbow is foodie central with an emphasis on seasonal eating and sustainability. Some vendors and restaurants open early or close late. Come hungry.
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Safari West
Giraffes in Wine Country? Whadya know. Safari West sprawls over 400 acres and hosts wildebeests, zebras, cheetahs and other exotic animals, which mostly roam free. See them on a guided 2½-hour safari in open-sided jeeps, which also includes a 30-minute hike; reservations required, no kids under four (unless you book a private wagon). Those feeling adventurous can stay overnight in nifty canvas-sided tent cabins (including breakfast $260 to $475) inside the preserve. While the fires did some damage to the countryside around here and you will still see some burned areas, the animals are just fine and operations are back to normal.
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Robert Louis Stevenson State Park
At this undeveloped state park 8 miles north of Calistoga, the long-extinct volcanic cone of Mt St Helena marks Napa Valley’s end. It's a strenuous 5-mile climb to the peak’s 4343ft summit, but what a view – 200 miles on a clear winter’s day. Check conditions before setting out; it often gets snow in winter. Also consider 2.2-mile one-way Table Rock Trail (go south from the summit trailhead parking area) for drop-dead valley views. No dogs allowed. Temperatures are best in wildflower season, March to May; fall is prettiest, when the vineyards change colors. The park also includes the old Silverado Mine site where Stevenson and his wife honeymooned in 1880.
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CIA at Copia
The former food museum beside Napa's famous Oxbow Public Market has been revived as a center of all things edible by the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. In its new life as Copia, the 80,000-sq-ft campus offers wine tastings, interactive cooking demos, an innovative restaurant, a massive fork statue (composed of many thousands of smaller forks) and more food-related features. The eponymous Restaurant at CIA Copia takes a new approach to food service, with cart-and-tray dishes traveling around the dining room and chefs similarly on the move, answering burning questions from curious guests.
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Sharpsteen Museum
Across from the picturesque 1902 City Hall (originally an opera house), the Sharpsteen Museum was created by an ex-Disney animator (whose Oscar is on display) and houses a fantastic diorama of town in the 1860s, big Victorian dollhouse, full-size horse-drawn carriage and a restored cottage from entrepreneur Samuel Brannan’s original resort. (The only Brannan cottage still at its original site is at 109 Wappo Ave).
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Olabisi Wines
In downtown Calistoga, this tasting room run by a long-time winemaker specializes in extremely small-production wines produced with wild yeast. The big Cabs, floral Pinots and dry whites often sell out quickly, with the winery producing less than 1000 cases a year. Bottles cost $38 to $125. Tasting fee is waived with a purchase of three bottles.
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Bothe-Napa Valley State Park
A mile-long trail leads from Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park to adjacent Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, where there’s a swimming pool ($5) and camping, plus hiking through redwood groves. If you're two or more adults, go first to Bothe and pay $8, instead of the per-head charge at Bale Grist.
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Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park
This park features a 36ft-high water-powered mill wheel dating to 1846 – the largest still operating in North America. The best part: you can actually see them grinding flour when they open up for tours on the weekends. Weekdays, it's still fun to stop by for a peek. In early October, look for living-history festival Old Mill Days.