Heading north of Juneau on the state ferry takes you up Lynn Canal, North America’s longest and deepest fjord. Along the way, Eldred Rock Lighthouse stands as a picturesque sentinel, waterfalls pour down off the Chilkoot Range to the east, and the Davidson and Rainbow Glaciers draw ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ as they snake down out of the jagged Chilkat Mountains to the west. You end up in Haines, a scenic departure point for...
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