Turks & Caicos

Several kilometers long – the frequently boasted '12 miles' (19km) only applies if you measure the entire northern coast of Provo, which is, admittedly, one unbroken beach – this world-famous stretch of coast is powdered with white sand and close enough to the reef wall to see the Atlantic breakers. Though it’s studded with hotels and resorts, its sheer size means that finding your own square of paradise is a snap.

Happily lacking the modern development that has enveloped Provo, Grand Turk is a step back in time. At just 10.5km long, this dot amid the sea is a sparsely populated, brush-covered paradise. Cockburn Town, the main settlement, has narrow streets frequented by wild donkeys and horses. Grand Turk is the port of call for most cruises coming to the Turks and Caicos Islands, thanks to a huge facility at the island's south end. On a busy day, two ships will be in port – off-loading nearly 7000 people.

Beaches rim the land and calm blue water invites you in for a refreshing swim. Grand Turk also offers excellent scuba diving and snorkeling close to shore.

The smaller islands around Providenciales are known simply as the Cays, and most of them boast superb beaches and total isolation. They are only accessible by private boat charter.

The annual migration of 2500 to 7000 Atlantic humpback whales through the Columbus Passage, the deep-water channel separating the Caicos and Turks islands, is one of the Caribbean's great sights. Moving through the channel (also known as Turks Islands Passage) between January and March, with the most reliable sightings in February and March, the mighty creatures are on their way to their breeding grounds in Silver Bank in the Dominican Republic, and Mouchoir Bank in TCI's southern waters. Local boats take visitors respectfully close to the action, and it's even possible to dive or snorkel with the whales. On land, with a pair of binoculars you can watch from the shores of Grand Turk and Salt Cay, as they pass close to the passage.

One of TCI's most beautiful spots is Mudjin Harbor. Near Conch Bar the rocky shore rears up to form a shrub-covered escarpment above the rolling Atlantic. Walking along the clifftop you’ll be surprised to see a staircase appear out of nowhere, leading into the earth. Take it down through the cave and emerge on a secluded cliff-lined beach. Looking seaward waves crash into the offshore rocks in spectacular fashion. If you want to explore beyond Mudjin, walk the lovely Crossing Place Trail.

If you can’t quite envision what the Turks would have been like in the 19th century, take a trip to Salt Cay. It's the sort of hideaway that you search your whole life to discover. But while the land is quiet, the sea surrounding the island is awash with life: turtles, eagle rays and the majestic humpback whale all frequent the waters. Hard to get to and even harder to leave, this place is a true haven for scuba divers and for those seeking an escape from the modern world. The large salina (salt pan) and roaming wild donkeys are reminders of the salt trade, the island's principal industry from the mid-17th century until the 1930s.

Salt Cay was hit hard by hurricane Irma in 2017, damaging most buildings and houses in the island. Most of the island population was evacuated but things are

Locals and visitors alike flock to the weekly Fish Fry in Bight Park (next to Wymara Resort) for local fast food, drinking and entertainment. Makeshift stalls deliver fresh conch salads, jerked chicken, rum punch and the like, while live music plays. Arrive early as queues can get long.